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Cluj-Gibraltar 2019 (tura)


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Cluj-Gibraltar si-napoi. 8500 km. In de 25 zile. Cu Booking facut cu 5-6 luni in urma, in ciuda sfaturilor celor care mai prefera s-o mai arda pe stiu ei unde. Si cu bilete la muzee cumparate tot din fata computerului. Si cu un tabel frumos, care continea pe rubrici, data, ruta, pretul in eur al cazarii, daca cazarea contine mic dejun sau nu, pana cand pot face anularea, in ce interval se face checkin-ul, la fel si checkout-ul, la ce ora trebuie sa plec dimineata, care este distanta de mers in ziua respectiva, care este timpul in care Yina imi rupe c__ul pe ziua aia, cand estimez ca ajung, dupa spusele google maps, plus alte info, inclusiv daca am traseu facut pe gps pt ruta respectiva sau nu. Plus un folder intreg copiat pe dropbox si in 2 telefoane cu rezervari, bilete, harti, documente si altele. Ca imi place organizarea. De fapt, toti prietenii care imi viziteaza garajul, spun acelasi lucru: garajul meu este mai curat/organizat decat apartamentul lor. Nu este ca nu mi-ar place sa fiu haotic, dar nu pot. Nu o am in sange.

 

Motocicleta, inainte de tur, am curatat-o, uns-o, spalat-o, verificat-o, schimbat consumabilele, facut iar ture de proba samd pana le venise rau cel putin vecinilor, privindu-ma. Adica sunt atat de maniac ca pana si uleiul din moto l-am aruncat dupa un an, cand facusem doar 1000 km, doar pt ca trecuse anul, si nu vb de ulei de rapita, ci Yamalube, care este 75 lei litrul. Cel putin cu atat mi-l vinde Marcel, dar pt a pastra „prietenia”, tac eu. Asadar, placute frana fata noi, anvelope noi (S22 fata, T31 spate), ulei + filtre noi, verificat nivel antigel, lichide frana, etc. Cumparat un Canon G7X Mk2 si vreo 2 acumulatori de rezerva pt calatorie. Mi-am luat pt aceasta tura si un Dainese Ridder D1 Goretex, ziceau ei ca e waterproof. Cand l-am vazut, sa pic din picioare: era voluminos precum costumul de ski, despre water si proof vorbim mai incolo. Sentimentul este ca parca as imbraca un cal. Asa ca am lasat costumul meu de ploaie acasa.  Doar ma salva D1. Si cum sa ploua mai mult de o jumatate de ora pe drum? Updatat GPS-ul cu harta Europei si camerele Cyclops, plus introdus in el toate punctele de interes + cazarile aferente. Intocmit lista cu toate cele necesare, ba chiar si cantarit bagajele pt a sti ce incarcatura am pe spate. Depaseam cu 10 km. Cam 200 Kg de „bagaje”. PLM, numai valizele goale au 13Kg. Aveam la mine de la kitul de pana, compresor, pana la banda adeziva 3M. Cine se gandea ca o voi folosi si pe-aia?

 

Si vine ziua plecarii, in 17. Ziua anterioara, vineri, imi urcase un pic tensiunea la birou cand, in loc sa am o zi usoara, la ora 14 a trebuit sa bag si o sedinta foto cu despachetat si impachetat de studio, plus prelucrat fotografiile. Greu, dar am trecut peste. Dupamasa, super exaltat, parca nimic nu se mai potrivea. Rabdarea mea nu mai avea nicaieri loc. Bagat o tura de Lidl, sa luam de-ale gurii pt a doua zi. Bagat si ultimele 2 seriale din Yellowstone, poate poate adorm. Nici pe ma-sa. Abia pe la 2 noaptea daca am reusit sa inchid un ochi. Nu mai vorbesc ca m-am zvarcolit toata noaptea.

 

La 5 dimineata, dat trezirea la nevasta, care de aceasta data, fara niciun comentariu, (altfel este cea mai nematinala persoana pe care o cunosc, daca ar fi dupa ea, ziua ar incepe la orele 13), s-a trezit. Merg eu jos, scot masina din garaj, apoi motocicleta, dar impinsa, nu pornita, caci deh, ora 5 dimineata, sambata totusi, bag apoi iar masina, inchid garajul, dupa care incerc sa cobor valizele si topcase-ul. Inchidem apa, luminile, usa, coboram. Un coleg de serviciu ma rugase sa-i trimit o poza dinainte de pornire, cu costumul pe mine si cu motocielta incarcata. Pe d__cu! La 5:45 dimineata? Pai nu e lumina. Si plecam. Fiind totusi dimineata de Cluj, unde noaptea temperatura scade la 12-15 grade, zic la nevasta-mea sa ia costumul de ploaie peste cel moto, asa poate dormi linistita in sacul de dormit, cel putin pana in vama. Ma apuc de fixez tankbag-ul, iau casca, pornesc intercomul, dau drumul la muzica sa vad ca merge, cat nu am manusile trase, iau geaca, iau manusile si da-i bice. Constat ca farurile mele, reglate in jos la minim, cu 200 kg pe spate, bateau la fix in gura celor de pe contrasens. Adica delimitarea era fix in gura lor. De stateau mai treji pe scaunele masinilor, era ok. De erau mai adormiti, pe spate, ii supara la ochi. Unul din 20 imi facea cu farurile. Ii dadeam si eu cu faza lunga, sa-i arat ca am si de-aia. Deh, bixenon, dar evit totusi accelerarile violente. Nu e mult si suntem la granita. Un pic de coloana, eu cu bun simt ma asez in rand. Un mosulet simpatic imi face sens sa ma bag in fata, ca deh, moto... Il ascult si devansez toata coloana. Vamesul, simpatic si ala, arunca un ochi peste buletine si face semn sa trecem.

 

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Ungaria. Tara mea preferata. NOT! Nu am sa spun niciun cuvant despre ea. Doar ca, desi avem vigneta valabila o luna pt tara lor, cumparata si aia cu 5 zile inainte din Mol, regret ca nu m-am suit pe autostrada. Altfel, doar platit cu cardul benzina si da-i mai departe.

Slovenia. Tara care, de acum 4 ani, cand am fost in Sicilia cu motocicleta, reuseste sa ma fascineze de fiecare data. Este o mini Austrie, cu niste peisaje superbe, cu casutele lor fara garduri, curata, cu dealul din departare tuns si ala cu masina de tuns iarba, o tara prin care m-as pierde pe potecile lor de la tara cel putin o luna. Iar GPS-ul mi-a luat din nou fata cu niste poteci prin padure, pe dealuri, trecand prin niste satuce parca in miniatura, in drum spre si dincolo de Murska Sobota, spre Udine. Superbitate! Traseul din 17 nu a avut decat vreo 750km. 

 

Prin Murska Sobota, dupa orele de motociclit, relaxare prin centrul orasului si mancarea mea preferata.

 

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In 18 aug, duminica, dimineata incepea cu drumul catre Udine, care urma sa aiba doar 300 km de Slovenia si un pic de Italia, la un loc. Placere totala!

 

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Si iarasi un pic de Slovenia la tara:

 

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Cum zicea a mea, aceasta este Slovenia:

 

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Editat de ®azvan
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Udine. Cazarea, de fapt Paula, caci am vrut sa stam la o casa de la tara, unde tipa, o raw-vegana artista ca si noi, care a locuit vreo 10 ani prin Tenerife, ocupandu-se de vitralii, avea inchiriata de la proprietar aceasta casa si o administra inchiriind-o mai departe in regim de pensiune, unde ea gatea tot, (si ce mic dejun bun am putut manca,) ne-a intampinat un pic nervoasa. Ajunsesem la 2, si checkin-ul trebuia facut la 4. "Si eu trebuie sa traiesc", este concluzia pe care ne-o servea invocand ca intre orele 2 si 4 are si ea niste timp de respiro. Mentalitate tipic italiana, si respect pt asta. Noi romanii parca ne-am nascut sa fim slugi, nu avem deloc respectul acesta pentru noi, sau ma rog, marea parte a populatiei...

 

Cu harnasamentul pe noi, numa chef de cafea in oras nu aveam, Udine fiind la vreo 12 km departare. Asa ca am ramas in fata pensiunii si m-am pus pe facut fotografii. Nici macar bagajele nu le puteam lasa undeva, insa nu a trecut mai mult de o jumatate de ora si a aparut din nou la poarta cerandu-si iertare pt scena ei, si primindu-ne inainte de termen. Spre seara, nevasta-mea, vorbitoare de italiana, a aflat ulterior ca adevaratul motiv pt care ne primise nervoasa era de fapt barbatu-sau, care nu ajunsese pt masa de pranz la timp, cat si toata viata ei, istorisita, alaturi de cele 18 pisici din dotare.

 

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Yina facuse si un pic de offroad in drum catre Italia, prin Slovenia, ca lipseau vreo 2 km de asfalt. 

 

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Camera, holul si baia.

 

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Vreau sa zic, baia... deci putea fi linistita o camera la cat era de mare...

 

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Dupa un dus rapid, schimbat in hainele lejere iar Yina cu bagajele date jos, da-i bice catre Udine. Un orasel tipic italian, cochet, curatel. 

 

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Drumul catre La Spezia a continuat cu niste peisaje minunate pe care nu am nici cuvinte sa le relatez, nici GoPro sa le redau, am oprit in schimb la o coborare de pe ceva munte, pentru a fotografia satucul acesta care reda inca o data frumusetea italiei la tara.

 

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Acum 2 ore, ®azvan a spus:

Ca imi place organizarea. De fapt, toti prietenii care imi viziteaza garajul, spun acelasi lucru: garajul meu este mai curat/organizat decat apartamentul lor.

 

Sunt singurul care vrea acum o poza cu garajul? :) 

 

Mersi ca impartasesti cu noi experienta.

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Mda, desi am starnit curiozitati fara sa vreau, nu garajul face obiectul topicului acum, mai ales ca saptamana trecuta am revenit din tura, si cu exceptia faptului ca in weekend am schimbat uleiul si filtru la moto (implinit 9000 km cu cel pus anterior acum 2-3 luni), am decarenat-o si am spalat-o, nici macar o matura nu am mai apucat sa dau dupa frunzele si praful acumulat in ultimele 4 saptamani de cand am fost plecati. Mai mult, restul echipamentului, gen cizme, manusi, inca stau la aerisit pe balcon, castile, valizele sunt inca nespalate... Practic, dupa oboseala acumulata, inca nu am prins weekendul ala in care sa stau si sa nu fac nimic. Insa daca garajul devine un interes, trag o canapea de piele in fata lui, o umbrelutza, curent electric oricum am in el, un frigider si dupa caz un tun de caldura (ca vine iarna), si creez o zona de chillout pt motociclistii veniti in pelerinaj la garajul lui ®azvan la Cluj. 

 

Revin cu restul postarilor, pana nu ma prinde din urma Alzheimerul...

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Spezia. Practic prima locatie unde dupa 3 zile de mers in prima parte a zilei si vizitat in a doua (750+300+500 km), cu alte cuvinte un pic de rupere sistematica a behindului meu si al nevestii, urma sa avem o zi de vizitat: Cinque Terre. Tot ce imi aduc aminte cu vreo 20 km inainte de a intra in Spezia era sa scap de harnasament, sa lovesc dusul si apoi, cu hainele lejere si casca modulara cu masca ridicata, sa ajung cat mai repede in port si centrul Speziei. Zis, dar nu facut. De data asta, predarea apartamentului trebuia facuta de Lerry la 5 si el imi da mesaj ca nu poate inainte de 6. Mare bucurie pe mine si nevasta! O ora de asteptat  in fata imobilului, alaturi de ceva francezi care si ei aveau aceeasi problema. Reusim intr-un final si minunea, timp in care imi faceam mea culpa ca de ce nu alesesem un hotel de 1-2 stele, caci in Spezia la 50-60 eur nu te atingi de altceva, in loc de apartamentul cu pricina (51 eur / noapte, rezervat cu 5 luni in fata...). Si uite ca vine si raspunsul la intrebarea de ce: apartamentul super fain: 2 balcoane, living, o incapere mare jos, dormitorul deasupra, a meritat! 

 

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Tragem rapid un dus, apoi mergem in portul Speziei, unde aveam pus de acasa un waypoint cu parcarea. Practic in fiecare oras aveam setat in gps adresa hotelului si un waypoint cu o parcare in centru, plus alte atractii daca mai era cazul (gen locatii de unde se vede orasul, etc).

 

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Ajunsi din nou acasa, va dati seama ce urma, cu o masina de spalat si una de uscat haine, avand in vedere ca a doua zi urma sa ne trezim pt o zi de leneveala cu vaporasul prin Cinqueterre: spalat sosete, chiloti, tricouri murdare. Asadar, trimis nevasta la restaurantul pizzerie de langa noi, unde ii si face italianul reducere vreo 2 eur dupa ce se holbase la ea mai tot timpul, apoi mancat si adormit. Practic, in cazul adormitului, daca a mea acasa, nu o prinde niciodata ora 2 noaptea adormita, aici cum punea capul pe perna, cum nani instant. Fac eu in capul meu: ce bun somnifer e pt tine Yina!

 

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Dimineata zilei cu pricina incepea cu o cafeluta si nelipsita tigare pt a mea, plus un rasarit de soare pt mine. Urma sa fie o zi calduroasa!

 

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Ajunsi din nou in port, lasat pe Yina cu disklock-ul pe ea, in timp ce noi ne asezam la coada la bilete. 

 

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Dupa ce am luat biletele, am tras o tura pe faleza sa mai surpind niste cadre, dar in acelasi timp am luat si o mare teapa. Coada la bilete era neimportanta. Ce era importanta, era coada la imbarcare, bineinteles ca reveniti am fost ultimii, si am ratat un loc de fotografiat ok, sus pe ferry. Tot puhoiul urca sus. Si totusi...

 

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Primul orasel, Portovenere, aici nu ne-am dat jos. Era un orasel gen Spezia, mai mare, nu satuc, neinteresant pt mine, cel putin fata de ce urma sa vina. Si bineinteles, mi-a tras-o si nevasta-mea, ca mi-a uitat crema de soare acasa, iar spre sfarsitul zilei eram ars pe gat si frunte, numa bine sa stea casca si costumul a doua zi pe mine in drum catre Monaco.

 

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Riomaggiore, Corniglia si Monterosso al Mare. 3 satuce suprasaturate de turisti, chinezi in mare parte, dar nu numai. Celelalte 2 sunt prea mici ca sa mai merite debarcarea, unul era si scos de pe lista ferryboat-ului. Din punctul meu de vedere o capcana de turisti, destul de scumpe comparat cu alte locuri minunate ale lumii, dar na, cine mai are fotografii cu Cinqueterre? Santorini de exemplu mi-a placut mai mult, dpdv fotografic. Este faina ideea satucelor pescaresti, dar cand aleile deja inguste ale acelor satuce devin populate, totul se transforma intr-o forfota claustrofoba dintr-o parte in alta. Mai pui si temperaturile de vara, si ai supa perfecta. II dau dreptate lui Marcel care spunea ca a merge in luna august in concediu in partea calda a lumii este... In fine! Ma bucur ca am bifat-o (pt nevasta) si nu am sa o mai vad decat in poze, caci eu nu mai calc veci in locurile in care am fost, cel putin in cele deventite obiective de marketing.

 

Va las pe voi sa trageti concluziile.

 

 

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Reintorsi in Spezia am mai bifat cateva strazi, nu mare lucru, ma pregateam psihic de drumul catre Monaco de a doua zi care urma sa fie pe coasta Italiei, prin orase, prin trafic, in caldura, cum este mai fain pt motociclit. 

 

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In drum catre Monaco, intr-o oprire de relaxat behind-urile si baut o gura de lichide, un loc cu o priveliste minunata specifica "Coastei de Azur". 

 

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Editat de ®azvan
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Irina. Irina a fost cea mai expeditiva dintre toti, si cu ea s-a terminat si seria pensiunilor si a apartamentelor (2+2 la numar), unde nu aveam o receptie 24/24h. Oricum, nici in Spezia, nici in Monaco nu te atingi de hoteluri de 3 stele la 50-60 eur. Ce mi-a placut la Irina a fost ca, dupa ce mi-a tras banii de pe card prin Booking, contactand-o pe whatsapp, imi scrie direct:

 

"Hi, You must pick up your keys in a secret box.  if you are facing the restaurant - take it to the right and get to the end, to the grid with flowers.  there you will see a private entrance.  To the left of the door is a small box.  there are keys.  code 2704 open.  when you leave put the keys back.  thank you"... Si imi ataseaza fotografiile acestea:

 

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Camera a fost 70 eur, practic nici in Milano la 4 stele nu am platit atata, dar no... e Monaco! Nu gasesti nimic sub 100 eur/noapte. Si decat sa stau in Menton, de unde si catre ce mai faceam inca 1.5h ore pe drum dus-intors, dupa ce stateam 8 ore in sa venind dinspre Spezia, am zis pas. Si m-am felicitat pt asta. Practic eram la 14 min de mers pe jos de portul Hercule, sau tot atata fata de Casino-ul Montecarlo, unde e miezul.

 

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Parcat pe Yinutza in port, si apoi la picior catre fitze... Ce a fost amuzant este "nasul muierii catre lux". Practic, nevasta-mea, fara nici-un gps, harta sau sa fi fost vrodata acolo... m-a dus ata catre strasse. Dar atza frate! Vroiam sa ma pierd si eu prin tunelul de la Montecarlo, nimic...

 

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Acuma despre "strasse". Practic, in fata Casino-ului exista un parc. In parcul ala este situata o lucrare numita "Oglinda cerului", lucrare despre care nu am sa-mi dau cu parerea, dar acolo, in lateralul Cafe de Paris, respectiv in fata Casino-ului si sub privirea valetilor, se aduna toate botoxatele si tunatele pamantului, aka "printesele" in devenire, care se fac ca-si butoneaza telefoanele si-si etaleaza eleroanele/ spoilerele in timp ce, pe bucla circulabila care da fix in fata cazinoului, dar nu pentru a fi parcate ci doar pt impresii, o ard cu masini scumpe, printii.

 

Si este asa un circ de showoff perpetuu. Caci astia fac ture, iar ele pleaca si vin altele. Si tot circul asta tine pana seara tarziu. Recunosc ca seara, dupa circuitul de F1 importat de-acasa pe GPS, am dat o tura si pe-acolo, da eu, nefiind print, nu am nimerit intrarea si m-am dat batut, am mers acasa si m-am culcat.

 

Les voila:

 

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Dimineata, asa ca dupa trezitul din vis... Noi parca la inchisoare, cu grilajul ala. Urma Marseille

 

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Merci, stai ca mai e!..

 

Unde eram? Drumul catre Marseille. Ca o paranteza, cand ai un rezervor de numai 18 litri si o vezica care functioneaza, evita Italia, evita Franta, si un pic din Spania. Astia, cu sistemul lor de benzinarii self-service, in mare parte si aproape peste tot in weekend, nu au toalete. 95% din cazuri. Si apoi, ori platesti cu cardul, ori daca insisti pe cash, trebuie sa ai schimbat in 5 si 10 eur, si sa estimezi cam cat iti intra in rezervor, caci numa in 5 si 10 eur poti alimenta. De vis! Si astfel, visu ala cu route 66, in care tragi langa pompa, te duci de platesti la casa si-ti iei si un pachet de guma, s-a dus pe pwla. Motociclictul, cu tot ce presupune el, dintr-un afis de reclama de-ala aspirational cu asfintit si stuff, devine un chin. Un traseu de 400 km, in loc sa-l imparti in 2 sau 3, cand le ai pe toate la un loc, ajungi sa il imparti in vreo 10: prima e pauza de pishu, a doua e de alimentat, da asa, nu la 200 km cum ar trebui, ci pe la 160 sau 235, in functie de unde gasesti, apoi pauza de mancare, apoi o pauza de intins picioarele, apoi o pauza de tigara, si iar o alimentare si la final, inca un pishu + o tigara. Sau variatiuni pe aceeasi tema. Noroc cu castile modulare, ca nu le scoti chiar atat de des de pe cap cum ar fi cu cea integrala. Acum imi vine in minte imaginea tipei de la ultima benzinarie din Romania inainte de a iesi in Ungaria, una de renume dealtfel, care se inflamase ca imi permisesem sa intru cu casca pe cap, cu masca ridicata dealtfel, deci mi se vedea fata, comportament pe care eu nu l-am mai sesizat nicaieri in 8200 km, in toate benzinariile din Europa unde intrasem in acelasi fel. Sa-mi mai zica vreunu de ospitalitatea din Romania, caci cu toata compasiunea am sa-i spal fata cu niste lichid de parbriz fabricatie proprie din gura-mi.

 

Altfel, pretul benzinei in tarile mai sus amintite, nu coboara sub 1.55 eur/l. Abia in Spania ajunge la 1.35. Si asta e benzina de 95. Deci coasta de Azur in luna august = benzina scumpa, caldura cat cuprinde, toalete nem, aglomeratie, localitati ingreunate de trafic, noroc cu Yina ca e slim si agila, si nu are rabdare sa stea decat la semafor...

 

Altfel, Marseille este un oras frumos, de-aici incepeau si cazarile in hoteluri cu mic dejun inclus, deci nu mai aveam stresul de a ma intalni cu proprietarul sa iau cheile.

 

 

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Si bineinteles, dupa prima parte a zile motociclit si checkin, a doua parte a zilei vizitat Marseille-ul. Am inceput cu locul de unde se vede tot orasul, bazilica Notre Dame de la Garde

 

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Apoi am parcat fetita in centru, dupa care luat centrul la picior. Aici am mancat si cea mai tare shaworma cu de toate. Nu a fost cu toate, dar a fost exceptionala. 

 

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Daca am auzit de la nevasta-mea un cuvant toata Franta, si la dus si la intors, intrebata fiind ce vrea sa manance, este scris aici:

 

IMG_4606.thumb.jpg.846a8b59e261156c3e2741bc766b4fec.jpg  Am si zis ca fac cu nervii. Cine ma-sa o fi inventat cuvintele acestea.

 

Intorsi acasa, fetita lasata singura in fata hotelului, 

 

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Apoi un spectacol din camera:

 

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Marseille - Barcelona, sau drumul Franta - Spania.

Parasind oarecum Coasta de Azur si aglomeratia, drumul incepea sa fie mai liber, mai degajat, dar aceeasi problema a lipsei de toalete la benzinarii pe sistemul de selfservice. Ce mi-a ramas adanc tiparit in creier pe partea asta a Frantei, sunt 2 lucruri: 

1. asemanarea soselelor pe drumurile nationale a celor franceze cu cele din Romania, starea proasta a asfaltului, marcaje, etc. Mi se parea ca am reintrat in tara. Pana si balariile de pe margine parca erau identice. Asta in comparatie cu Slovenia, cu Italia. Parca pe alocuri pamantul rosu, cel putin cum ne apropiam de Spania, mai schimba usor perceptia.

2. ca_atul la liber pe camp, exact ca in Romania. Asta nici cu lobotomie nu voi reusi s-o uit. La un moment dat, oprim sa ne dezmortim picioarele intr-o parcare de RV-uri, care arata foarte frumos dealtfel, umbrita si curata, te imbia parca sa te opresti. Locul frumos, cu bancute de beton, cu cosuri de gunoi, asfaltat, era ca un apendice la soseaua care lua curba, chiar si destul de larga aceasta parcare, gen loc de campare de rulote. Zis si facut. Ne dam jos, ne scoate sandwich-urile, racoritoarele, ne apucam sa mancam. Intre timp, la vreo 20-30 m in spatele nostru, tot opreau masini de FR, se dadeau jos ocupantii, si impartiti pe sexuri urcau o panta si, trecand de o poarta pe care scria proprietate privata, dispareau din campul vizual, in stufaris. Nu dura mult si reveneau. la mintea cocosului ca era practic un wc public pe proprietatea omului. Intr-un final, din lipsa de dotari "civilizate" ale statului francez, decid sa merg sa arunc o privire: o pajiste de vreo 30-50 metri lunga pe 5-7 m lata, in Romania inca nu am dat de asa ceva, plina de ca_ati din 30 in 30 cm, marcati toti cu cate un servetel pus mot deasupra. Din clipa aia, sloganul meu "Romania, o tara de ca_at" s-a transformat brusc in "Franta, tara ca_atului"

 

Fotografiile acestea sunt dintr-un alt loc, mai aproape de Spania, unde in benzinarie, un batranel care se ocupa de tot pe-acolo, avea si toaleta, ba chiar si sapun. Vibe-ul este acelasi: in cautarea locurilor umbroase. De mentionat ca batranelul mai mult statea la chioscul alaturat, o brutarie, unde isi afla existenta o batranica. Dupa ce ne-a incasat, a si fugit la ea in vizita. Noi, cu bun simt, i-am eliberat benzinaria si ne-am cautat loc in alta parte, pe banca de sub, la umbra.

 

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In Barcelona, unde urma sa stam 2 zile pline, in dupaamiaza sosirii, dupa checkin, evident ce altceva sa faci decat s-o arzi pe Las Ramblas. Asa ca sa luam pulsul doar.

 

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Prima zi de vizitat Barcelona... 

 

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Si a doua zi de Barcelona...

 

 

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Barcelonette...

 

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Evident, eu, rupt de picioare...

 

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Si inca putin din arhitectul asta al caselor hobitilor... 

 

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In drumul catre Valencia am aflat ca spaniolii au autostrazile gratis. Ma rog, cel putin de la Barcelona incolo. Urmau sa tot fie pana in Gibraltar si inapoi prin Madrid, Zaragoza, catre granita cu Franta... peste 1200 km de autostrazi, libere de taxe. Asa cum spuneam pe un alt topic, observasem ca toata Franta, chiar si Germania, nu mai vorbesc de spanioli, erau cu totii in sudul spaniei cu RV-urile sau autobuzele pe 2 roti, si toti pe aceste autostrazi. In schimb, desi aveam bifat "no taxes" + nebifat autostrazile la GPS... pana aproape de Valencia, dinspre Barcelona, nu m-a bagat pe nici-un km de autostrada. Practic de aici incepea distractia "la liber". Folositoare pentru ce urma sa vina. 

 

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Despre Valencia pot spune atata: imi pare rau ca am rezervat 2 zile in Madrid sau in Milano, puteam sa aloc una de vizitat Valenciei. Ajunsi dupamasa, dupa ce am vizitat centrul, Oceanograficul nu am mai apucat sa-l vedem. 

 

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Asta mi-a iesit in cale. Trebuia sa-l spawnez.

 

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Jucaria avea o culoare perlata de-mi picase fata. 

 

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O veche piata transformata intr-un centru comercial:

 

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Si Orasul artelor si al stiintelor

 

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@einstein1984 inteleg argumentul pentru care nu ai intra cu o casca full face intr-o incapere dotata cu camere de supraveghere. Pe de alta parte, modulara are un rol aparte: te scuteste de a ti-o da jos la o simpla alimentare, permitand "fata la control". Hai sa intelegem si spiritul legii, nu numai litera legii. Sau in cazul acesta scopul crearii unui obiect. Dealtfel, mai am un exemplu cat se poate de concret pentru tine: la toate punctele de control vamal, casca full face trebuia sa o dau jos (si am stat nu o data 10 minute la control). La niciun punct de control prin care am trecut cu masca ridicata la casca modulara nu mi s-a cerut sa o scot de pe cap. Oare de ce? Aia or fi mai destepti decat o vanzatoare frustrata de benzinarie? Apoi mai stiu un lucru: clientul are intotdeauna dreptate. Da in Romania iar nu se aplica. Suntem o tara cu un popor frustrat, cel putin marea majoritate. Vrei sa-mi schimbi perceptia? N-ai nicio sansa.

 

 

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Acum 11 minute, einstein1984 a spus:

m-am lamurit din pozele cu funduri cu cine vorbesc. 

 

Uimeste-ma te rog!

Drumul Valencia - Granada. Practic de aici incepea Spania sa-si arate adevarata ei fata, cea mai frumoasa dintre ele. Si motivul pentru care durerile de behind provocate de Yina au meritat. Sau incepea sa merite...

 

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Asta am facut-o cred, pentru a arata ca fiecare loc isi are "deseurile" ei. Si nu, nu ar trebui sa fim mai mandri ca "nu doar si la noi"... 

 

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Granada, cu influentele ei maure, este absolut superba. Si practic destinatia mea preferata din tot acest tur. Aici au inceput si micile probleme. Ajunsi din Valencia, rutina zilnica, checkin-ul, un dus rapid dupa care calare pe moto si am iesit in oras. Ca prima destinatie, sa-mi impresionez jumatatea cu o priveliste a orasului, Mirador San Nicolas, de unde se vedea cetatea Alhambra, pe care oricum urma sa o vizitam a doua zi. Tot nevasta a fost cu ideea sa alocam o zi intreaga de vizitat Granadei, si i-am ramas vesnic recunoscator pentru decizia ei. A meritat din plin! Dar sa revin la "probleme": in timp ce urcam eu pe stradutele inguste cu piatra cubica ale centrului vechi, pentru a ajunge la biserica San Nicolas, din dreptul lantului se auzeau zgomote. Problema este ca nu le auzeam numai eu, le auzea si nevasta, ce este mult mai grav :))) Ajunsi sus, urc motocicleta pe cric si arunc o privire la lant. Lantul meu lasat de zici ca erau tatele unei babe. Plm! Nelovit pana acum de aceasta problema, analizam solutiile. Me felicit ca totusi pusesem trusa cu chei sub sa, pe care initial nu vroiam sa o mai car dupa mine caci deh, in 40k km nu ma lovisem veci de probleme, insa ma zgaria pe creier valoarea de 150Nm cu care obisnuiesc sa strang piulita rotii spate, cu dinamometrica care are bratul destul de lung comparat cu "cheita" din trusa de scule a motocicletei. Decid in mintea mea ca oricum trebuie sa fac plinul, cobor intr-o benzinarie si intind acolo lantul, m-oi descurca eu cumva. Evident, dupa un pic de chin, am reusit sa defiletez piulita, dupa care am rezolvat problema. Intre timp, fotografiile de sus de pe deal.

 

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Centrul, la fel de spectaculos. 

 

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Revenind, pentru o zi intreaga de vizitat Granada, am inceput cu centrul vechi, acolo unde-l lasasem seara...

 

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Pentru a continua cu Alhambra,

 

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Si patalatul Nazaries.

 

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Evident, zi finalizata cu o intindere de lant, caci a doua zi urma capatul turei: Gibraltarul.

 

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Încă o dată: frumoasă tura! 

În zona aia de lângă Granada am dat și peste câteva drumuri numai bune de motociclit. 

 

Offtopic: cam are dreptate colegul de mai sus cu scosul căștii prin partea asta de lume.

Acum vreo 2 ani jumate când m-am mutat în Malta și eu ziceam la fel ca tine: ce mare chestie? (mai ales cu flip-up deschis) Plus că mi se părea și incomod - să mai țin și casca în mână în timp ce încercam să plătesc benzina. 

Am mulți colegi sicilieni și de prin sudul italiei și toți m-au învățat același lucru: Scoate casca! Scoate casca! Zici că erau apucați câte odată, dar și ei fac la fel chiar dacă mulți au căști open face și fac asta peste tot: benzinărie, orice fel de magazin, chiar dacă intră 30 de secunde să întrebe ceva.

Or avea ei motivele lor să facă așa. O fi ceva ce ține de specificul zonei de sunt așa de panicați 😄 

Oricum, acum m-am învățat și eu și mi-e chiar mult mai simplu. Pun casca pe oglindă până plătesc/merg înăuntru și o găsesc de fiecare dată la locul ei. N-o ia nimeni de acolo în 2 minute și eviți și orice discuții inutile cu scosul căștii de pe cap. 

 

Back on topic: bagă în continuare! Știu că urmează alte zone frumoase prin care ați trecut. 

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@Tracer7 Nici in prima tura (Cluj-Sicilia), nici in asta, nu am simtit niciodata nimic din cele afirmate de voi. Multe au fost benzinarii selfservice, altele au fost cu casier, insa, in cele din urma, nu am avut parte decat de bunadispozitie si zambete din partea lor, in antiteza cu "ospitalitatea" de care aminteam mai sus in Romania. Si nimeni nu m-a facut niciodata atent, mai mult, tot ce am vazut in jurul meu, la motociclisti ma refer, procedau la fel ca mine. Iar aici vorbesc atat de ai lor, cat si de straini pt ei. Singurul lucru care era mentionat in multe benzinarii, in unele chiar audio, a nu se muta agregatul inainte de a plati la casa. Practic asta e legea pe care am resimtit-o.

 

Altfel, Holiday Inn din Linea de la Concepcion, un hotel pe gustul meu. In special led-ul albastru si rosu din baie, noaptea, plus robinetul de la cada la care setai direct temperatura. Va dati seama vreo 2 minute m-am uitat lung la el :))

 

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Si in sfarsit, stanca mult asteptata!

 

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Si cam asta era capatul de linie, plus led-ul albastru din baie.

 

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Practic, o stanca cu foarte multe maimute obraznice. Nu prea multe de vazut. Ceata/ norul pe partea estica a versantului, spectaculos dealtfel, a facut aproape imposibila zarirea Marocului spre sud, sau macar a intregii peninsule iberice. Vedeai doar ce era la vest de stanca. Oricum un fenomen foarte ciudat. Din cate am inteles, sus nu poti ajunge decat cu cabina sau taxiurile lor, incercasem cu motocicleta sa ajung la ceva punct intermediar si drumul era blocat. Nu mi-am batut capul, oricum telecabina era la indemana. Aveai chiar wi-fi sus pt a transmite live maimutele. 

 

Aici nu am intins lantul.

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La 30.09.2019 la 17:41, einstein1984 a spus:

la benzinariile din Ro e un semn care zice sa nu intri cu casca.... Si italienii veniti pe la noi MEREU isi lasa castile pe oglinda cand intra....

eu unul nu am vazut astfel de semne...

italienii, numai ei ...?

 

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Drumul Gibraltar - Madrid avea din nou sa-mi ia fata cu niste peisaje unice, tin minte, si imi pare rau ca nu am oprit sa fotografiez, un drum care semana leit cu Route 66, sol rosu, cat vedeai cu ochii o campie intinsa strabatuta de un drum atza lung si drept de vreo 10-20 km, care cobora de pe un podis, traversa campia cu ferme de cai si apoi intra intr-un defileu sapat intr-un deal... absolut superb. As vrea sa-l identific pe google maps, dar cum nu am avut pe ce salva istoricul calatoriei, nu am decat ultimii 2000km pe gps.

 

In fine, aceste fotografii nu reliefeaza ce spun mai sus, dar asa, ca idee... Spania

 

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Holiday Inn-ul din Madrid nu era atat de fain ca cel de langa Gibraltar, dar avea cam aceleasi dotari, inclusiv bateria de dus cu temperatura in grade Celsius si ledul albastru, ba de data asta chiar si unul rosu (la Gibraltar am gresit, nu era decat led albastru)

 

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Si cum o bucurie nu vine niciodata singura (lantul lasat din nou), Yina ne-a mai facut una: o gaura de toata splendoarea in valiza nevestii. Deh, MIVV combinat cu Givi. Italienii astia nu stiu sa proiecteze impreuna niste accesorii.

Va inchipuiti ce urma: un Carrefour de unde sa iau o rola de aluminiu pentru a pune pe interior un perete izolant, si bineinteles, banda 3M de care vorbeam la inceput ca o luasem cu mine... iata ca in sfarsit si-a gasit utilizarea!

 

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Madrid. Impunator, mare, frumos. Dar in special, mare!

 

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Seara s-a mai lasat cu o intindere de lant, ca deh, ziua anterioara trasesem de Yina 700 km in 8 ore, multa parte pe autostrazi. 

 

A doua zi de Madrid, un pic mai plictisitoare, mi-a parut rau ca nu am schimbat-o cu Toulouse sau Valencia. Dar nu aveam de unde sti. Cel putin ritmul a fost unul mai lent si ne puteam odihni mai mult. 

 

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Madrid - Zaragoza nu avea decat 300 km, un drum de 3 ore. Asta a fost cazarea preferata a nevestii, un castel unde fotbalistii si-ar duce printesele. N-am nimerit camera cu baldachini, dar tipu de la receptie m-a luat cu "- A, Romania, ce faaaaaci?" I-am raspuns pe romaneste, nu cred ca a inteles saracul prea multe. Faptul ca stia acest "ce faaaci", si bembeurile de pe-afara, iar ma duc cu gandul la fotbalisti. In fine, castelul:

 

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@Muretto Grundieg e plin de ei!

Zaragoza mi s-a parut o adunatura de stiluri/influente arhitecturale culese de prin toata Spania. Barcelona, Valencia, Madrid-ul, Granada, toate au personalitatile lor, ca orase, niciunul semanand cu celalalt. Nu si Zaragoza. Si totusi, este frumoasa!

 

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Apropos, aici, de la ceva pizzerie numita Telepizza, care dealtfel fusese foarte buna in Madrid comandata in camera de hotel, am mancat cea mai proasta pizza ever. Practic nici nu s-a putut numi pizza. Erau aruncate pe ea niste chestii gen bacon, barbeque sos, ciuperci, si o branza fara gust, toate demne de gratar. Si totusi erau pe paine. Bleah!

 

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