Ulei Honda Cb 500....

[superstar]

M-am uitat pe mai multe site.uri si forumuri si nu am gasit nicaieri nimci exact!

 

 

Am si eu de curand un cb 500 din 98....si nu stiu ce ulei sa ii pun....am vazut in datele tehnice pe louis ca tb sa pun 20w-40....dar p la magazine prin buc nu am gasit nimic(cica nu se mai face)...am gasit insa la louis pe site CASTROL 1. http://www.louis.de/_10e9d38fa7f44511030be...59087"SET: Castrol GO! (SAE 20W-40) MotorenĂśl & Sicherheits-Warnweste:Hochwertiges 4-Takt-MotorenĂśl, speziell fĂźr Motorrad-Motoren. Mineralische Premium-Qualität fĂźr ein langes Motorenleben. Sorgt fĂźr einen dauerhaft belastbaren Schmierfilm, welcher in jeder Situation einen kompletten und lang anhaltenden Schutz vor VerschleiĂ und Korrosion bietet. Reduziert Ălverbrauch. Sehr gut auch fĂźr den Einsatz in Ălbadkupplungen geeignet. Ăbertrifft API SG, JASO MA. Inhalt: 4 Liter.Die ultraleichte und luftdurchlässige Warnweste mit breiten rundum Reflexstreifen bietet jederzeit optimale Sicherheit. Ein Muss fĂźr jede (Urlaubs-)Tour und bereits Pflicht in vielen europäischen Ländern. ErfĂźllt die DIN EN 471. Material: 100% Polyester. Farbe: Neon-Gelb. GrĂśĂe: Universell.Greifen Sie jetzt zu und sparen Sie Bares, bevor es zu spät ist!"2. http://www.louis.de/_10e9d38fa7f44511030be...r_gr=10038209GO! 4T:Mineralische Premium-Qualität fĂźr ein langes Motorenleben. 4-Takt-MotorenĂśl, speziell fĂźr Motorrad-Motoren. Sorgt fĂźr einen dauerhaft belastbaren Schmierfilm, welcher in jeder Situation einen kompletten und lang anhaltenden Schutz vor VerschleiĂ und Korrosion bietet. Reduziert Ălverbrauch. Sehr gut auch fĂźr den Einsatz in Ălbadkupplungen geeignet. Ăbertrifft API SG, JASO MA.Stie cineva care e diferenta intre aceste 2 prodsue?...vad ca sunt mineral....e ok?...sau tb sinthethic...sau semi?

[Vizitator DARK-RIDER-82]

uite aici un link pe care l-am gasit tot pe forum , si sigur o sa te ajute! http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?...23&langid=1

BAFTA!

[superstar]

merci de raspuns...dar cum ti.am zis...difera de la un site la altul....asta e oferta celor de la motul....as vrea si niste sfaturi de la altii care au acest model de honda si au pus si alte uleiuri....castrol, motorex,repsol...sa vad care ar fi cel mai indicat...

[G.Burlacu]

merci de raspuns...dar cum ti.am zis...difera de la un site la altul....asta e oferta celor de la motul....as vrea si niste sfaturi de la altii care au acest model de honda si au pus si alte uleiuri....castrol, motorex,repsol...sa vad care ar fi cel mai indicat...

 

Recomand ulei semisintetic 10 W 40(iarna) sau 15 W 50(vara). Ca firme mergi pe motorex ( raport pret/calitate bun), sau motul - ceva mai scump dar se zice ca e si ceva mai bun .

 

Toate bune!

[superstar]

merci de raspuns....m.am mai uitat si in cartea tehnica..si o sa bag un 10w-40,care mereg si vara si iarna....cred ca motul...dar nu stiu inca diferenta dintre sintetic..si semisintetic!

 

 

 

Recomand ulei semisintetic 10 W 40(iarna) sau 15 W 50(vara). Ca firme mergi pe motorex ( raport pret/calitate bun), sau motul - ceva mai scump dar se zice ca e si ceva mai bun .

 

Toate bune!

[G.Burlacu]

merci de raspuns....m.am mai uitat si in cartea tehnica..si o sa bag un 10w-40,care mereg si vara si iarna....cred ca motul...dar nu stiu inca diferenta dintre sintetic..si semisintetic!

 

Daca la carte scrie semisintetic...atunci d-ala baga.

Mi-e un pic greu sa explic diferentele intre uleiuri sintetice sau semi, dar daca cauti un pic pe google sigur o sa gasesti info de care ai nevoie.

 

Numai bine!

[Vizitator DARK-RIDER-82]

uite aici ceva interesant: Motorcycle Oil Technical Facts

 

NEW! - 10W40 Amsoil Motorcycle Oil Test FACTS - Results Here

NEW! - 20W50 Amsoil Motorcycle Oil Test FACTS - Results Here

 

Motorcycle crankcase oils are specially formulated for motorcycle applications that have wet clutches. Most automotive oils are not suitable for use in motorcycle engines. A premium quality motorcycle specific oil typically has higher levels of anti-wear chemistry such as zinc and phosphorus than some automotive oils do, which are critical in protecting high RPM and high load and engines from wear and especially cam lifters and follower wear. That is not to say that all motorcycle oils have increased levels of zinc and phosphorus; many do not.

 

Over the years, automotive manufacturers have requested oil manufacturers to reduce zinc, phosphorus (an essential element in ZDDP, Zinc Diethyl Dithiophosphate) and other extreme pressure additives from the oil. The primary reason is that automotive manufacturers have requested is that they are extending emissions systems warranties to periods of 10 years/150,000 miles and they claim that high concentrations of these chemical additives were contaminating their catalytic converters and negatively affecting emission levels required to meet their 10 yea/150,000 mile warranty requirements. There are also a few motorcycles on the market that have catalytic converters, however they are not subject to the same 10-year requirements as the automotive industry for emissions levels.

 

We recommend looking at the oil manufacturers specification sheet and performing a comparison. If they won’t provide the data a very simple spectrographic analysis lab test can be performed that will provide the exact PPM (parts per million) concentration of zinc, phosphorus and other chemicals. That is the only way to get accurate information. There is no reason why a reputable oil manufacturers customer technical service department should not have that data readily available for the consumer and if they do not you should be highly suspect as to why not and go out and get the data yourself before started using their oil.

 

Another issue with using an automotive type oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch is that many automotive oils have friction modifiers. Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues such as “engine start failures, a rough running feel and increased fuel consumption due to higher engine stall speeds”.

 

It is also important to note that there are automotive type oils that do not contain friction modifiers. You have no way of knowing unless the specific manufacturer tells you. That is why we say it is better to be safe and use a motorcycle specific oil in a motorcycle engine with a wet clutch that meets the proper motorcycle specification as stated in the next few paragraphs.

 

A premium quality motorcycle engine oil can be stated to meet the requirements of API Service Classification SJ, SH, SG, SF, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF and CD. Note that SH, SF, SG and CD are now obsolete. Motorcycles specifying an oil meeting any of the obsolete applications can use an oil with the newer classification oil because it includes, and supersedes, the requirements of the obsolete service classification. For example, if you have an old motorcycle that specifies SE service classification you do not have to go out and look for an oil with that service classification (and if you did you would most likely not be able to find any in stores as SE was outdated in 1979). The newer classifications include the outdated ones and are perfectly suitable for use. There are some motorcycle oil manufacturers that will include an older service classification on the bottle to so that consumers can specifically see that the oil not only meets all the older specifications but the newer ones as well.

 

It is important to note that as an oil classification is superseded by a newer one, that the newer one provides improved benefits over the older one in such areas as high and low temperature deposits, wear, rust and corrosion for example and is perfectly suitable for use. All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles that specify the JASO-MB specification. If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, We recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle.

 

Question. How should I clean my motorcycle engine? Will using AMSOIL Engine Flush in motorcycle engines damage the wet clutch?

Answer. AMSOIL Engine Flush may soften clutch materials to the point where clutch packages could be damaged, and is not recommended for this application. Using Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle oil will clean your engine just by using it.

 

Petroleum or Synthetic?

 

On the subject of whether or not to use a petroleum or synthetic motorcycle oil my recommendation is to use a premium quality synthetic. There is absolutely no comparison between the two. Synthetic oil has been proven to resist high temperature breakdown and shearing effects at higher engine operating temperatures for a much longer time period than petroleum oil and as a result allows the oil to stay in the specified viscosity grade much longer. Synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure and will reduce internal friction and thus provide for lower engine operating temperatures as well as provide for smoother shifting.

 

We have measured the cylinder and cylinder head operating temperatures in two identical motorcycles; one running petroleum oil and the other a premium quality synthetic. We measured an average of 15-20 degree F. temperature difference after a very mild ride and short period of idling. At extreme engine operating temperatures and conditions this value can be up to 35-45 degrees F. lower with synthetic oil. We have received reports of this from motorcyclists that have oil temperature gages installed in their crankcase. We received another report of a customer that when he was using petroleum oil in hot summer heat and traffic jams he would have to shut off his air-cooled V-twin engine because it began overheating. After changing to a premium quality synthetic motorcycle oil his engine temperatures dropped significantly and he no longer had that problem on hot summer days in traffic. Again there is no comparison between the two and anybody that tells you otherwise has obviously not reviewed documented test data and facts clearly showing that synthetic oil outperforms petroleum oil in every category.

 

We have a report of a dynamometer test run comparing a specific manufacturers branded motorcycle oil to a premium quality synthetic oil. In the first part of the test with the petroleum oil installed in the engine, transmission and primary chaincase the maximum horsepower (Hp) was 68.1 and the maximum torque was 80 lb.-ft. In the second part of the test the same motorcycle was used and all petroleum oil products drained from the engine, transmission and primary chaincase. With the synthetic the maximum Hp was 69.8 and the maximum torque was 81.3 lb.-ft. That’s a gain of 1.7 Hp and 1.3 lb.-ft. torque, which is what We consider a significant amount of gain just from changing from petroleum oil to a premium quality synthetic oil.

 

Synthetic oil will hold contaminants in suspension longer and reduce any oxidation and provide for a much higher load capacity as well as provide for increased wear protection to critical engine parts such as pistons, cylinders, gears, camshafts and bearings. Synthetic oil also has superior cold weather performance characteristics and will flow at temperatures that will cause petroleum oil to solidify and can be used for extended drain intervals beyond that of a petroleum oil. Note that during extended drain interval operation you need to change the oil filter at the filter manufacturers recommended change intervals, then install a new filter, top off the oil and your ready to go. There are premium quality extended change intervals oil filters on the market that can be used for twice as long as a standard filter.

Synthetics and Slipperiness in Relation to Roller Rockers and Wet Clutches

 

As a side note, we have received many reports of motorcycle shops telling customers that synthetic oil is so slippery that is causes roller bearings not to roll and will result in flat spots on the roller bearings. This is absolutely not true. Synthetic oil is no more “slippery” than petroleum oil. Synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure than a petroleum oil but it is not more slippery and will certainly not cause roller bearings to roll. Roller bearings will roll whether they are using petroleum oil or synthetic oil and the only way the roller bearing on the rocker arm will ever stop rolling is if the needle bearings that support the roller bearing failed. Every automotive racing engine (as well as many other types of high performance engines) and most of today’s high performance automobile engines use camshafts with sophisticated roller rockers with absolutely no problems of this nature whatsoever.

 

We have also received reports of motorcycle shops telling customers that synthetics are so “slippery” as compared to petroleum oils (which simply do not reduce friction as well) that wet clutch packs in their motorcycle transmission and even their automatic transmission of their cars and trucks will slip when using “slippery synthetics” even if there are no friction modifiers present. This is absolutely not true.

 

Look at it this way. Wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. The slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. The same applies to the slipperiness of synthetic lubes in wet clutches. It is simply not an issue. However, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the synthetic lubricant keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better. And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer, too.

 

Petroleum oils have low resistance to heat and allow varnish and glaze to form on clutch plates, which can lead to slippage and increased heat generation and potential failure of the clutch pack. Synthetic oil is going to allow your wet clutches to perform better (especially under extreme heat, RPM and load conditions) and last longer than they would with petroleum oil subjected to the same operational conditions.

 

As a side note in respect to Automatic Transmission Fluid: synthetic ATF is not more “slippery” than petroleum ATF. The base fluids, whether or not petroleum oil or synthetic oil, play no direct role in the relative friction levels of wet clutches. The friction-modifying additives developed for petroleum oils work just as expected in synthetic PAO’s fluids. The longer the fluid resists oxidation, the longer the original frictional properties remain. The superior oxidative stability demonstrated for synthetic ATF’s thereby leads to extended retention of frictional properties.

 

Which Viscosity and How Long Can You Use It For?

 

When it comes to motorcycles oils the most common choices are 10W-40 and 20W-50. There is also SAE 50W and SAE 60W oil that is generally specified for older Harley-Davidson motorcycles with Flathead, Panhead or Shovelhead engines. There is also a 0W-40 and a 5W-40 motorcycle oil which is generally used in 4-stroke off-road motorcycles and ATV’s and for machines used in cold weather operation, although a 10W-40 synthetic has an exceptionally low pour point and is also suitable for use in cold weather operation as well as extreme high temperature operation (again, due to the superiority of synthetic oils as outlined in this section and book). In general, 10W-40 is best for most of the Japanese machines and the 20W-50 is best for V-Twin engines, such as used in Harley-Davidsons. For specific recommendations consult your owners manual as there are exceptions to this.

 

Motorcycle oil drain intervals should be performed at the manufacturers specified oil drain interval unless you are using one of the premium quality synthetic oils on the market which specifically state that is can be used for twice as long as manufacturers recommendations. If you have a particular brand or type of oil and you want more exact change interval and performance intervals, other than the motorcycle manufacturers recommendations, then your option is to perform used oil analysis testing over a period of time in order to establish a trend of how long the oil is suitable for continued use based on your motorcycle and operating conditions. That is the only accurate method that will assist you in determining exactly how well the oil you have chosen holds up over a period of time in service.

 

Interested in becoming an AMSOIL Dealer?

 

Knowledge is Power! We have set up a plan to help you excel in your own AMSOIL Dealership. This is exclusive to dealers in our group only! With effort and the information we provide, you should be well on your way to creating a successful business. We have the knowledge base to help you succeed! We are the largest group in AMSOIL consisting of OEM Engineers, Designers and lubrication specialists. We are confident that our experience will provide an excellent source of knowledge and information while building your dealership or using AMSOIL synthetic products in your vehicles / equipment. AMSOIL has the warehouses, manufacturing, distribution systems and marketing plan already in place! All you have to do is use the tools offered and develop your own personal group of AMSOIL Dealers. AMSOIL is an excellent company to represent and the synthetic products are the best there is, period!

 

sau link-ul:http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

 

<small>--- Mesaj completat în 06 Aug 2007 20:03 -------------</small><br/>sau asta: http://www.whitedoglubes.com/oilinfo.htm]http://www.whitedoglubes.com/oilinfo.htm [/url]

 

 

Motorcycle Oil Information

 

Please use the 'Quick links' section (the Blue text) on the left to navigate straight to a particular section

 

Motorcycle oils can be divided into 2 basic categories, oils for 2 stroke engines & oils for 4 stroke engines. If you don't know the difference between the 2 engine types, click on the link below for a simple explanation.

The Basic Differences Between 2 & 4 Stroke Motorcycle Engine's

What the Numbers & Letters Mean

SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Grades

 

10w = This is a grade for the weight (or thickness) of the oil at colder ('winter') temperatures. To get this grade, the weight of the oil is tested at 0°F

 

40 = This is a grade for the weight (or thickness) of the oil at hotter temperatures. To get this grade, the weight of the oil is tested at 200°F

Number

 

10w

 

40

Meaning

 

Defines the viscosity (thickness) of the oil at it's coldest operating temperatures. This first number is used to show the viscosity of the oil used in an engine during winter when starting the vehicle from cold. The 'w' stands for 'winter'. Different countries often require different grades of oil, depending on how warm or cold the winters are. e.g. 10w40 is often used in the U.K, where as a country that has harsher or colder winters might use a 20w40. The oil viscosity or weight for cold temperatures is tested at 0°F. Generally speaking, the higher the number, the thicker the oil

 

This is the number or grade that defines the oils viscosity or thickness at higher operating temperatures. The oil viscosity or weight for hot temperatures is tested at 200°F.

API (American Petroleum Institute) Grades

 

A Double letter 'API' code classifies oils as suitable for different uses. The first letter of the API grade shows the type of engine an oil can be used in (either petrol or diesel). All petrol engines are classified 'S' which stands for 'spark ignition engines'. All diesel engines are classified 'C' which stands for 'compression ignition engines'.

The second letter of the API grade defines the quality of the oil. Ratings start with the letter 'A' (which is the lowest quality) & currently go up to the letter 'J' (which is currently the highest quality).

JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization)

 

JASO 2 Stroke Oils: In 1994, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO), developed a set of standards for 2 stroke oils. The standards were assigned according to a 2 stroke oils lubrication properties, detergents, initial torque (acceleration), exhaust smoke formation & exhaust system blocking (as 2 stroke oil burns, oil is deposited in the exhaust system, exhaust system blocking measures how much oil is deposited).

There are 3 classification grades for 2 stroke oils FA, FB & FC. The grade JASO FA is the lowest grade, assigned to oils which provide minimum performance characteristics & FC is the highest grade.

 

JASO 4 Stroke Oils: In 1998, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO), developed a set of standards for 4 stroke oils which were measured against an oils ability to resist clutch friction & slippage & to prevent wear & pitting in the gear box.

There are 2 classification grades for 4 stroke oils Ma & MB. The grade JASO MB is lower a friction oil & MA is relatively higher friction oil.

 

The Difference Between Mono-Grade & Multi-Grade Oils

 

Single or Mono Grade Oil = (e.g. SAE 15w) This is an oil which is only suitable for use within a very narrow temperature range. SAE monograde oils usually fall into 2 main categories. The grades with a 'w' after them (SAE 5w, 10w, 15w & 20w) are only suitable for use in winter time because they are generally thin oils which are good for use in winter or for cold starting. The 'summer time' grades (SAE 20, 30, 40 & 50) are more suited for warmer (or summer time) temperatures or for use in an already hot engine.

The problem with single grade (or mono grade) oils is that they can only operate efficiently over a small temperature range. For example, a SAE 10w oil is fairly thin which is good for cold starting but it becomes to thin for effective lubrication as the temperatures rise (as the oil gets hotter, it starts to lose it's viscosity or thickness). A SAE 40 oil is fairly thick, which provides good lubrication when the engine is hot, but thick oils can cause drag when used from cold (e.g. starting the motorcycle first thing in the morning)

Gear & gear box oils, which are used in engines where the gearbox is separate from the engine, are mono grade oils but they use a different range of SAE grades to measure their viscosity. The commonest grades for gear oils are SAE 80 & SAE 90. As a very rough guide, SAE 90 gear oil has the same viscosity as SAE 50 engine oil

Gear oils used for certain applications (e.g. certain racing applications) are prefixed by the letters 'EP' which stands for extreme pressure

 

Multi Grade Oil = (e.g. 10w40) In the 1960's, long chain polymers started to be used in engine oils to improve the oils viscosity index's (basically meaning the oils were effective over a much wider temperature range). This led to the creation of multi grade engine oils (like 10w40 or 15w20), which is the type of engine oil used by most modern motorcycles.The most widely used multi grade oil is 10w40, which operates as a thin 10w weight oil at 0°F & as a 40 weight oil at 200°F

Different Types of Motorcycle Oils

 

Animal & Vegetable oils: Animal oils & fats used to be used for greasing horse & cart axles, but animal fats are not suitable for motorcycle engines as they oxidise (burn) at low temperatures & will form a clogging gum or varnish. Most vegetable oils have the same drawbacks as animal fats, except castor oil.

Castor oil has very good lubrication properties when under heavy load. Unfortunately, castor oil still oxidises very easily, which often means motorcycle engines running on castor oil need frequent engine strips to remove deposits. Castor oil was widely used in racing applications many years ago, & is still sometimes used today.

 

Mineral oils: Mineral oils are made by the fractional distillation of crude oil, which is the same method used to extract petrol from crude oil.

Mineral oils are able to withstand higher temperatures & are much less prone to oxidation which makes them much more suited to conditions inside an engine.

 

Synthetic oils: Synthetic oils are chemically manufactured. Although they are generally more expensive, synthetic motorcycle oils don't suffer from oxidation & have extremely high lubrication qualities which makes them ideal for high power, high speed engines.

 

Semi-Synthetic oils: Semi-synthetic oils are used in motorcycle engines as a good compromise between performance & expense as many motorcycle engines don't require a fully synthetic oil to operate. A semi synthetic oil is an oil that is supplemented with additives which prolong the oil service life and reduce the wear to acceptable level.

Oil Additives

 

Oil additives are added to oils during the manufacturing process to improve the performance of motorcycle oils. Below are examples of commonly used additives. Additives are often used to improve the lubrication qualities & reduce oxidation (burning) & friction, but they can also be used for simple things like changing the colour of the oil.

Additive

 

What it does

Detergents

 

Detergents improve the cleanliness of the engine, especially in hot areas. They work by holding the by-products of oxidation (burning) in suspension & in so doing prevent the oil coagulating & stop deposits building up in the engine.

Dispersants

 

Dispersants help control cold-sludging & also carry products that assist the combustion process

Oxidation & corrosion inhibitors

 

Oxidation & corrosion inhibitors reduce the rate of oil oxidation & help control any corrosion due to acids & water vapour

Anti-wear agents

 

Anti-wear agents protect rubbing components against wear from friction by improving film strength. This is especially good in aiding the lubrication of valve components

Pour depressants

 

Pour depressants lower the point at which an oil solidifies so they do not thicken so easily when cold

Viscosity-index improvers

 

Viscosity-index improvers help to reduce thinning (when hot) & thickening (when cold) of oils. They help control oil consumption & improve cold starting. Viscosity-index improvers enable the oil to flow like a thin oil & lubricate like a thick oil at all times.

Oiliness agents

 

Oiliness agents reduce the friction of heavily loaded rotating or reciprocating parts (like the fly wheel)

Anti-foaming agents

 

Anti-foaming agents reduce foaming, which is caused by the air in the crankcase mixing with oil under turbulence. Foaming reduces an oil's ability to lubricate & cool & increases oxidation