T I M B E R L A N D

man de patit nu am patit mare lucru (doua cazaturi pe acelasi genunchi la interval de 2 luni )si medicul mi-a recomandat sa stau linistit ca e cam grava treaba...mai bine ma lipsesc de moto desi imi place foarte mult decat sa imi risc sanatatea...voi trece la sporturi de apa (cayac) dupa ce voi vinde agregatul...bine ca n-am patit mai rau , deoarece sunt cam temperamental si nu prea ma pot controla cand vine vorba de moto ... cu ocazia asta renunta si sotia la moto (desi ei nu i-a prea placut ideea de la bun inceput) eu am pe a mea ghidon wrp si de la 2 cazaturi nu a patit nimic (doar genunchiul mi l-am distrus)

vand honda xr 440 bigbore an 2000 , porneste la prima pedala indiferent de temperatura de afara,am facut cu ea cam 400 km ,din pacate din motive de sanatate tre sa ma despart de ea ghidon wrp , far acerbis, aripa fata spate acerbis , sha retapitata Blackbird pret 1700 euro neg cu motocicleta se mai dau urmatoarele : stander motocross , un filtru ulei , semeringuri ulei furca , un cauciuc spate sh tel 0756 630 164

) si pe mine ma intreaba KacaTeMeistii la cate ore schimb kitul piston...whaaaat? Man e Honda nu goz la care tot surubaresti si cauti plastice si pedale pe dealuri(intr-o dupamasa un stresat cu un ktm ne-a intrebat : baieti nu ati gasit o pedala de kickstart? la care noi ne-am uitat unul la altul si ne-a infundat rasul) deci chiar se dezmembreaza in mers nu e mit....

eu nu stiu ce cizme folositi sau cum dati la kick dar eu dau la xr 4 timpi cu o pereche de acerbis grafitti si nu au nici pe dracu ( 2 timpi pe langa xr se poate porni cu mana)

ms mult...o sa incerc acuma cu 15/45 lanut e pe pozitia 16 @Filica...eu cu 15/45 urc in funtie de inclinatie cu a 2-a si a 3-a si merge (ce-i drept cam tare

pana ieri aveam montat pe Xr raport pinioane 13/48 ...motocicleta mergea ok dar mi se parea ca merge cam turata si ca cosuma cam mult...ieri am montat pinioane 15/45 si am facut o tura scurta : alta viata merge foarte tare acum ,in schimb parca a "disparut" frana de motor ...is curios acum cum va fi cu consumul .....

cei albi , de dangau

da cum de ai schimbat userul?

in Buscat zapada-i groasa , In buscat chiar se schiaza

pai daca cauti si tu la bmw ...platesti...marca nu produsul ...la noi la cluj este la piese de dacia cu 40 de lei

am inteles mie imi iese din carter , se ramifica printr-un "T" o parte merge in jos pana in fata rotii din spate iar cealalta ramificatie duce inspre airbox ,dar nu intra in airbox ( la airbox este o chestie ca un predecupaj exact in zona unde ajunge furtunelul de la carter) oare ar trebui sa decuper airboxul si sa bag furtunelul acolo? multumesc

aveti careva montat mirificul Mikuni Pumper Carb? http://www.xrsonly.c...mm-honda-xr400r http://www.xrsonly.c...onda-crf-xr-trx asa ceva folositi careva...eu la acel crankcase breather (furtunul din fata rotii spate) nu am nimic in capatul lui...e gol...trage mizerie pe acolo?

man , a mea este xr 400 cu big bore de 440 , si in treapta a 3-a se ridica fata din gaz este foarte brutala am rapor 13/48 fata de 15/45 , la care am si revenit de altfel deoarece am inceput sa fac iesiri mai lungi de 200 km dus intors si nu ajungea benzina ...acuma am in plan sa comand un rezervor acerbis de 22 litri fata de 11 litri cat am actual ...eu sincer sunt foarte multumit de honda , inca nu am fost pe un traseu pe care sa nu il pot aborda indiferent de inclinatia pantei , si merg cu niste baieti cu full crossuri ...ei surubaresc la ktm-uri eu doar bag benzina

inseamna ca nu te-ai suit pe XR:D

.frumos man , pacat ca nu pot pune si eu harta , ca pe unde umblam noi nu sunt nici macar forestiere

poti desface linistit carbul nu e mare inginerie...atentie mare la cui , ace ca se indoaie usor aveti careva montat mirificul Mikuni Pumper Carb? http://www.xrsonly.com/mikuni-pumper-carburetor-kit-36mm-honda-xr400r http://www.xrsonly.com/xrs-only-crankcase-ventilation-kit-honda-crf-xr-trx asa ceva folositi careva...eu la acel crankcase breather (furtunul din fata rotii spate) nu am nimic in capatul lui...e gol...trage mizerie pe acolo?

in poiana horii este zapada pe marginea drumului , dar nu stiu pana unde ca la un moment dat noi am facut dreapta pe un forestier

se scrie si se pronunta CEILALTI nu ceilanti..domnul instructor ai fi surprins sa vezi ca in accidente minore moto iese dauna totala pe cand o masina are un far spar si o aripa indoita

ia d-aici spor la citit Adjusting Suspension You should now have the rear of the cycle serviced with good bearings, proper spring, correct sag, and good oil and nitrogen pressure in the shock. The forks should have good oil, proper oil height, and proper springs and race sag. This article will deal with learning how to adjust the forks and shock to achieve the base settings for your riding style. To start, you need a little knowledge of how the adjusters work. When you turn the clickers you are allowing a portion of the oil to bypass the valving mechanism. This will either stiffen or soften the dampening depending on the direction you turn the clickers. With most clickers, turning the screw clockwise will stiffen the action and turning the screw counter-clockwise will soften the action. If you have a KTM 1998-2001 with a black knob on the shock compression adjuster it will work just the opposite: clockwise softens the action, counter-clockwise stiffens the action. The clickers located on the rear shock work as follows: the clicker on the top of the shock (as installed on the cycle) is the compression adjuster. The clicker at the base of the shock is the rebound adjuster. On the forks, the clickers on the top are the rebound adjusters and at the base of the fork are the compression adjusters. But on Showa twin chamber forks (found on Suzuki 125’s from 1993 to present, Suzuki 250’s from 1993 through 2000, and Honda 250’s and 450F’s from 1997 to present), the clickers are reversed. At the top of the fork is compression and at the base of the fork is rebound. If a shock has only one adjuster, normally it will be rebound. If a fork has only one adjuster, normally it will be compression. The next points are very important when you start to adjust the clickers. First and VERY IMPORTANT – ALWAYS START WITH REBOUND. Rebound dampening is where your control comes from. If rebound is too hard (slow) it will Pack (not return fully) causing the suspension to be harsh – therefore fooling you into thinking the compression dampening is too stiff. If the rebound is too soft (fast) it will pogo (bouncing around) this time causing someone not experienced in suspension tuning to think the compression dampening is the problem. The next step is to turn the clicker clockwise until seated, then turn counter–clockwise, counting the number of clicks. Then, using a magic marker, write your base settings on the fork and shock for both compression and rebound-i.e. 12C -- 10R. You can either use the factory original settings or, if units have been worked on by suspension tuners, their recommendations, or the middle adjustable range if you do not have a recommended setting. The next step is to use a short practice trail – 1/2 mile long or less – with a variety of different types and sizes of bumps. You do not want a long trail. You need a short trail that can be ridden a lot of times so that the computer under your helmet can average out what your suspension is doing. You can’t do this on a long trail. Now for the fun part: Start the cycle and, with screwdriver on hand, head out to the practice trail. Wear full riding gear, have race sag properly set, proper spring rates, and the clicker positions written on the suspension units. 0Start riding your practice trail as close to race speed as possible for about 10 minutes so that you can get a good feel for how the suspension is working with these base settings. Now you are going to screw up the suspension on purpose to get a feel for how it reacts when one of the adjusters is improperly adjusted. This is called CONTROLLED SCREW-UP. Start with the rebound adjuster on the suspension unit that felt the worst to you (remember, you ALWAYS start with rebound), turning it clockwise 6 clicks (harder or slower). Now the unit will tend to pack. Remember, if you are adjusting forks, you normally have a rebound adjuster on each fork – be sure to turn both an equal amount. Now start riding, slower at first, and as you get a feel for how the improperly adjusted unit is reacting, try picking up the pace to get the feel of a packing suspension unit. After about 10 minutes, stop riding and make a mental note of how the unit worked compared to how it worked at your base setting. Now turn the rebound clicker back to it’s base setting (6 clicks counter-clockwise) and then turn it another 6 clicks counter clockwise so that the suspension unit will be softer or faster and will tend to pogo. Again start riding slowly and build speed as you feel comfortable. After about 10 minutes, stop riding and judge how the suspension unit felt in the 3 different settings. Now turn the rebound clicker 2 clicks clockwise and start riding. Hopefully this will feel a little better than your last ride. After a period of time, stop and adjust another 2 clicks clockwise and ride. Keep doing this, 2 clicks at a time, until the quality of ride begins to get worse. Then, turn the rebound clicker 1 click counter clockwise and ride, continuing to adjust 1 click at a time until you find your NEW base setting. You now have the rebound on the suspension unit (i.e. fork or shock) that you started with adjusted for the best setting for you. Write this setting down on the suspension unit. Now do the same procedure with the compression adjuster or adjusters: six clicks stiffer than base, 6 clicks softer than base, then 2 clicks at a time toward stiffer until it gets too stiff, then 1 click toward softer until you reach the ideal setting. Do the same for the other end of the cycle. Now you have both ends adjusted for your practice trail and you have experienced poorly adjusted suspension units. When you ride or race somewhere else the computer under your helmet will be able to help you get things tuned in very quickly. Remember – write down these NEW base settings on the suspension units and in a race log. This will help you get things set up right when you go back to a previously ridden course. A FEW TIPS. From the base settings that you have tuned for yourself: For Sand runs, adjust to stiffen compression and slow rebound. For Rocks, Roots, and Potholes, adjust to soften compression, slow rebound. For Mud, adjust to stiffen compression, speed up rebound. If your shock has a high speed compression adjuster, it does not have clicks. Therefore, you will need to adjust by PARTS OF A TURN from full stiff (clockwise) turning out – i.e.: 1 turn, 1 5/8 turns, etc. Work on tuning this adjuster just as you would the screw clickers. Remember: Always start with rebound adjustment and, if in doubt as to which adjuster is off, always do rebound. The rebound adjustment is the most important but the hardest to determine if it is right or wrong. By doing rebound first you will not get fooled into thinking the problem is compression.

Man , la Xr nu am nici o treaba : porneste la prima pedala indiferent de temperatura de afara , cu relantiul n-am probleme ...nu pot sa ii gasesc un punct slab la aceasta motocicleta (multumesc lui Yzu ca a stat pe capul meu sa iau Xr:)) ....aa am gasit un punct slab : pedala de la schimbator am reusit sa ii rup nuturile cu cizmele Acerbis ...avea putin joc si am neglijat iar duminica la intoarcere din padis am obs ca la retrocedarea treptelor nu intra calumea , am venit cu a 3 a pana acasa si acuma ma uit pe ebay sa iau o pedala ca la noi cer porcii cam mult ....

oare G450x?....ajunge el inapoi la Xr

asa pateste nevasta la xt125r-ul ei....nu sta la rece la relanti decat cu socul tras sau in cel mai fericit caz cu socul la jumate ...se poate face ceva oare? parca ar fi prea mic relantiul si surub de reglaj nu are..

e voie cu orice tip de remorca (am vazut in ungaria pe autostrada o masina mica ce tragea o remorca cu barca)

nu man , era loc pt odihna si fumat asa scria pe baraca

cam 11 litri intra in rezervor , am avut 3 litri la mine in plus dar nu a fost nevoie , am ajuns cam la limita inapoi