Sinchronizare Carburatoare Vulcan 750a

[Ilarie]

Stie cineva unde sunt gaurile pentru montare manometre la carburatoarele de pe Vulcan 750A?

Am manualul dar nu se intelege nimic din poza aia.

[pistolaru]

Sincronizarea se face cu vacuumetre nu cu manometre.

 

Ca la orice motor, elementele de bransare ar trebui sa fie pe galeria de admisie, intre carburator si chiulasa.

 

Daca nu ai vizibilitate pipaie flansa, si trebuie sa simti stutul pentru bransarea vacuummeter-elor. Inchiderea lui poate fi facuta ori prin surub ori printr-un capacel de cauciuc.

[Ilarie]

Multumesc Pistolarule ... sunt cu 3 secunde mai destept ... deci vacumetre in loc de manometre.

Dar tot nu m-ai scos din ceata. Probabil ca nu ai vazut carburatoare de Vulcan 750A.

Noua ne trebuie exact locatia respectivului locas. Sunt 5 Vulcanuri de diferite tipuri. A8, A9, europene si americane.

[pistolaru]

E adevarat, nu am vazut niciodata carburatoarele de Vulcan. Deci iti mai servesc un pic de teorie

 

Sincronizarea carburatoarelor (aplicabila la motoarele cu cate un carburator per cilindru) se refera la reglarea identica a clapetelor de acceleratie pentru fiecare carburator, astfel incat sa se obtina un ralanti cat mai rotund si o acceleratie cat mai liniara.

 

Procesul de reglare se bazeaza pe masurarea, pentru fiecare cilindru, a DEPRESIUNII care se creaza in galeria de admisie in conditii de functionare a motorului. Depresiunea se masoara intre carburator si blocul motor, unde TREBUIE sa existe niste stuturi de bransare.

Depresiunea din galerie este determinata de gradul de deschidere a clapetei de acceleratie. Prin manevrarea surubului de reglaj a deschiderii clapetei de acceleratie, se urmareste o depresiunie identica pentru fiecare cilindru, atat la ralanti cat si in conditii de sarcina.

 

Procedura de reglare presupune:

- bransarea cate unui vacuummetru la fiecare galerie de admisie;

- pornirea motorului;

- reglarea deschiderii clapetelor la ralanti respectiv in turatie, pentru obtinerea unei depresiuni egale pe fiecare cilindru.

 

Daca ai un minim de experienta in mecanica, vei recunoaste stuturile de bransare si suruburile de reglaj a clapetelor fara manual, dex, etc.

 

Probleme similare s-au discutat, mai pe larg, si aici.

 

Salve

[Ilarie]

Pistolarule... Inca odata multumesc pentru intentia laudabila de a ma ajuta.

Teoria ca teoria, dar nu teoria ma omoara pe mine. Probabil nu am fost destul de explicit. Chestiile pur teoretice si generalitatile nu ma ajuta. Am dat prea mult pe motocicleta asta ca sa fac experiente pe ea. Chestiile de tip "vezi ca ar trebui sa fie pe acolo" nu ma ajuta cu nimic. Aici e vorba de o chestie punctuala, speciala carburatoarelor de pe Vulcan. Rog posesorii de Kawasaki Vulcan 750A, poate cunosc locatia exacta.

Minim de experienta in mecanica am (sunt inginer mecanic, e drept pe parte de roboti industriali si echipamente periferice de calculatoare, motociclist din 94) dar n-as vrea sa desfac vreun surub gresit sau sa bag furtunu prin cine stie ce gauri.

Mi-ar trebui pozitia exacta a respectivei - Vacuum Hose. Am postat mai mult gandidu-ma la faptul ca trebuie sa fie vreun posesor de Vulcan care sa fi facut chestia asta. Nu vreau sa sincronizez carburatoarele, numai sa o verific. Standul de proba il am de la Louis, si vroiam sa vad cum functioneaza.

[binox]

Daca esti inginer mecanic, ai si manualul ai si explicatiile lui Pistolaru, oare cat de greu o fi sa gasesti racordurile pt vacuummetre?

 

 

Studiaza atent manualul ( de preferinta cu motorul in fata pt ca stiu cum e treaba cu pozele naspa , asa am si eu) si cauta intre carburator si chiuloasa ca tre sa le gasesti (cel mai probabil sunt pe galeria/galeriile de admisie); daca te pricepi un pic si ai citit si manualul atent e imposibil sa demontezi ceva aiurea pe acolo

Spor la treaba!

[mihai_prd]

Ai resuit să le sincronizezi?

[Ilarie]

Bineinteles ca nu...

Astept ceva poze de la unu de prin America.L-am gasit pe grupul ala de pe yahoo VN750.

Ori are mult spam ori nu are casuta activata ca nu mi-a raspuns. Nu ma grabesc, astept.

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait.

[mihai_prd]

Bine. Atunci o să merg eu la Doru, guru mecanic de la Tanga Moteurs, Âşi o să-mi zică el ce Âşi cum, cu poze , că altfel nu se poate, că vara asta a făcut 5 VN de 750.

[Ilarie]

Ti-am fi recunoscatori. Toti 5. Tare greu te mai intelegi cu americanii astia.

[Ilarie]

Asta am gasit pe la americani...inutil sa va spun ca "that excellent pics" nu le-am mai gasit in folderu lu jax.O fi breezee pentru ei. Daca are cineva rabdare sa-si aplece ochii... poate imi spune si mie

 

Carb Synching on the VN750 is a breeze. The vacuum ports are right next to the mixture screws on both carbs...there are excellent pics of the A/F screws in the Yahoo Groups/files section in Jax's folder.

The front cylinder carb has the vacuum port on the left side of the bike. The vacuum port is at the end of the hose connected from the bottom of the petcock into the carb. This is where the vacuum from the carb activates the petcock to send fuel into the lines.

The rear cylinder, on the right side, has a hose connected to it's vac port that goes under the seat and connects to the fresh air vac valve, if you're still stock.

If you've 'coastered' and/or removed the EPA fresh air injection system, this hose should be removed and the vac port plugged with a 5.5mm vacuum cap.

Disconnect both hoses at the carb, and hook up your CarbStix or whatever (I use a TwinMax) to the vac ports.

You'll need a 1/4" barbed 'T' hose connector for the petcock side to maintain fuel flow, and (3) 1/4" flexible hoses total. You'll want to keep these hoses as short as possible to maintain equal vacuum and still give you enough slack to operate & read your balancer.

The base of the 'T' inserts into the hose from the petcock. A short hose goes back to the front carb, and a longer one goes to your Balancer. An equally long hose attaches your Balancer to the rear carb on the right side.

On our bikes, the FRONT cylinder is reference...ie, when you turn the vacuum adjust screw you are increasing/decreasing vacuum on the REAR cylinder. Read the instructions w/ your Balancer as to which side on it should be reference, if any.

The adjuster screw is located directly beneath the carbs, right in the middle. It's a 7mm bolt, probably w/ some yellow or whatever paint on it to prevent movement. You can see and adjust this best from the LEFT side. MAKE VERY SMALL, INCREMENTAL ADJUSTMENTS TO THIS SCREW, IF ANY AT ALL ARE NECESSARY!

Basically...warm up the bike first on the centerstand, shut it down and carefully hook up your instrument.

Loosen the throttle cable adjustment screws at the handlebars to ensure the throttle plates close completely.

Fire up the bike and get your readings as per the Balancer instructions.

Remember...When you turn the adjuster bolt IN (tighten), you are INCREASING vacuum on the REAR cylinder. Loosening the bolt DECREASES vacuum on the REAR cylinder....

I feel that our bikes have a bit of a buzz between 4300 ~ 4800rpms, so I don't just check synch at idle, I rev it and synch at 4500, then check idle again. I don't mess with the adjusters (carb side) on the throttle cables (to fine-tune the throttle plates) either, just loosen the ones on the grips a bit to make sure the valves fully close.

Hope this helps...

jm

[Estremadura]

Asta am gasit pe la americani...inutil sa va spun ca "that excellent pics" nu le-am mai gasit in folderu lu jax.O fi breezee pentru ei. Daca are cineva rabdare sa-si aplece ochii... poate imi spune si mie

 

Carb Synching on the VN750 is a breeze. The vacuum ports are right next to the mixture screws on both carbs...there are excellent pics of the A/F screws in the Yahoo Groups/files section in Jax's folder.

The front cylinder carb has the vacuum port on the left side of the bike. The vacuum port is at the end of the hose connected from the bottom of the petcock into the carb. This is where the vacuum from the carb activates the petcock to send fuel into the lines.

The rear cylinder, on the right side, has a hose connected to it's vac port that goes under the seat and connects to the fresh air vac valve, if you're still stock.

If you've 'coastered' and/or removed the EPA fresh air injection system, this hose should be removed and the vac port plugged with a 5.5mm vacuum cap.

Disconnect both hoses at the carb, and hook up your CarbStix or whatever (I use a TwinMax) to the vac ports.

You'll need a 1/4" barbed 'T' hose connector for the petcock side to maintain fuel flow, and (3) 1/4" flexible hoses total. You'll want to keep these hoses as short as possible to maintain equal vacuum and still give you enough slack to operate & read your balancer.

The base of the 'T' inserts into the hose from the petcock. A short hose goes back to the front carb, and a longer one goes to your Balancer. An equally long hose attaches your Balancer to the rear carb on the right side.

On our bikes, the FRONT cylinder is reference...ie, when you turn the vacuum adjust screw you are increasing/decreasing vacuum on the REAR cylinder. Read the instructions w/ your Balancer as to which side on it should be reference, if any.

The adjuster screw is located directly beneath the carbs, right in the middle. It's a 7mm bolt, probably w/ some yellow or whatever paint on it to prevent movement. You can see and adjust this best from the LEFT side. MAKE VERY SMALL, INCREMENTAL ADJUSTMENTS TO THIS SCREW, IF ANY AT ALL ARE NECESSARY!

Basically...warm up the bike first on the centerstand, shut it down and carefully hook up your instrument.

Loosen the throttle cable adjustment screws at the handlebars to ensure the throttle plates close completely.

Fire up the bike and get your readings as per the Balancer instructions.

Remember...When you turn the adjuster bolt IN (tighten), you are INCREASING vacuum on the REAR cylinder. Loosening the bolt DECREASES vacuum on the REAR cylinder....

I feel that our bikes have a bit of a buzz between 4300 ~ 4800rpms, so I don't just check synch at idle, I rev it and synch at 4500, then check idle again. I don't mess with the adjusters (carb side) on the throttle cables (to fine-tune the throttle plates) either, just loosen the ones on the grips a bit to make sure the valves fully close.

Hope this helps...

jm

 

nu vreau sa te supar, dar explicatiile astea sunt atat de clare incat nici nu ai nevoie de poze... legi vacuumetrele direct pe iesirile de vacuum din carburatoare (una care se leaga la robinetul automat, si cealalta la supapa de aer care este sub sea - exact asta iti arata si in poza aia de la inceput)

exact la fel se conecteaza vacuumetrele si la Ural-ul nou cu carburi Keihin

[theBD]

iote bah aciulea

[Ilarie]

Allah O Akbar,

Boieru tot Boier... Multam mult BeDe-ule. Ramanem datori eu si familia mea.

Valeu ce poceala mi se pregatea. Dam si bere, dam si vin...