Jerycho

Ovidiu-le imi dai palpitatii . Daca ai stat mai mult prin Bucuresti ai uitat ce soferi idioti sunt prin Constanta . Ca l-ai atis tu .. ca te-a atins el .. k asta e .. da chiar trebuia sa iti dea si vreo 2 in casca ? Per total bine ca nu s-a intamplat nimic grav si acum sunte-ti bine

K am priceput .. dot 3 .. si evident ca nu am lasat sa se scurga lichid de frana pe disc sau ferodouri O sa purced maine la o noua aerisire sa vad daca se schimba ceva -- sper -- cade obicei umblu cu pasager si franele astea nu imi confera absolut deloc siguranta ...

Problema cu frana fata . Lamuriti-ma si pe mine ce lichid de frana folositi . La mine pe capacul la rezervorul de lichid de frana de pe ghidon scrie dot 3(sper sa fie capacul original) , pe unele siteuri am vazut ca se foloseste dot 3 iar pe altele dot 4. Toate bune si frumoase pana cand am hot sa schimb lichidul de frana .. evident dot 3 de buna calitate. Am schimbat lichidul , am aerisit franele .. bla bla .. tot tacamul dar nu mai tine acum frana asha cum trebuie, adica trebuie sa treag de parghia de la maneta de frana pana aproape de capat ca sa simt ca franeaza mai cumsecade. Acum intrebarile : Daca cumva am gresit si am pus dot 3 in loc de dot 4 afectez in vreun fel circuitul de frana (garnituri , furtune)? Daca intradevar trebuie sa pun dot 3 ... unde am gresit ?????

Esti sigur ca este cureaua ? Ia mai bine da tu jos capacul care protejeaza fulia care angreneaza cureaua (ma refer la motor si stai linistit nu ai ce sa strici) , ridica mobra pe cricul central (sper sa ai ) si invarte usor cu mana de roata --- nu de altceva da sa nu ai vreun rulment spart inauntru --- Hmm si daca tot ai dat capacul jos curata si tu pe acolo pamantul si unge cu putina vaselina fulia aia ( vezi sa nu ungi partile care se ating de curea )

E chiar asha de indicat sa faci salturile astea intre trepte ? Nu uzezi prematur cureaua/lantul pe care il ai ? Iar cand vine vb de schimbat vitezele .. acum depinde de cum vrei sa mergi : economic sau mai sportiv Treptele intradevar sunt scurte dar poti ajunge cu a 2-a si la 60 - 80 daca il turezi mai tare. Dat fiind faptul ca eu am turometru si zona rosie incepe la 10000 rpm incerc intotdeauna in fiecare treapta de viteza sa ma tin undeva la 4- 6000 (deci sa schimb pana in 6 k ) dar am mers cu ea si la 9000 rpm Pot sa zic doar ca am retinut faptul ca in oras merg in general cu a 3- a (40-50 km)si a 4 a (50-70 km) si ca undeva peste 80-85 km schimb a 6 -a ca sa o mentin pana in cele 6k rpm mentionate mai sus Nu am en 500 am en 450 dar referitor la capitolul Cp/Nm sunt la fel

Ovidiule unii se mai pregatesc de Pasti , altii mai sunt la munca .... mai asteapta si tu putin ca deh...

Motorex este destul de vechi .. dar fara cine stie ce istorie in europa..americanii stiu de el (Amsoil si motorex rulz la ei ) Incearca acum pe louis.de s-ar putea sa gasesti , incearca de asemenea pe IGOL romania am auzit ca au uleiuri f bune si lucreaza cu Kawasaki

Cel cu duba e vinovat in orice situatie vreti. In primul si in primul rand duba este lovita in partea dreapta , deci cazul nr 1: - mergea in acelasi sens cu motociclistul , motociclistul banda 1 duba banda 2 --ESTE LINIE CONTINUA - duba nu avea voie sa faca dreapta de pe banda 2 pe 1 Cazul numarul 2 : - Duba vea din sens opus motociclistului , se apliga regula in cazul de fata ---ESTE LINIE CONTINUA--- deci iar soferul este vinovat de mai multe lucruri . Saracul motociclist .. cu viteza sau fara ... nu este de vina in cazul de fata ... chiar daca ar fi vazut stopurile pe frana ale microbuzului, daca respectivul sofer nu a semnalizat catusi de putin intentia(neregulamentara) de a face dreapta ,nu ar fi avut cum sa franeze si sa evite la timp duba Hmm revin asupra ideii ... gresesc la faza cu banda 1 si 2 pe acelasi sens de mers dar daca faceti abstractie de faza asta o sa va dati seama ca ideea este corecta Orice manevra ar fi facut soferul microbuzului a fost obligat sa taie linia continua

Superb tipule .. mai ales daca zici ca le-ai facut pe marea majoritate de unul singur Ai folosit echipamente speciale de polishat ?, iar vopseaua .. e normala .. auto ?

Rautate ce esti .. profiti de slabiciunea mea si ma iei la mijto Dupa pasti ... mai devreme nu am putut

Hmmm .. ioc poze...still waiting

Bun ... gasit cauciuc la ROMI3 de pe forum .. reprezentat romimoto(sau patron sau ce o fi) 320 de banuti cu tot cu transportul acasa . Afacere buna nu zic nu da acum problema e ... unde mi-l montez eu ? E vreun service/vulcanizare in zona mangaliei care se ocupa de asha ceva , + ca nu mi=ar strica nici o echilibrare a jentii ( nu e spitata - e turnata )

moto_en .. grabeste-te cu pozele ... totusi ma intreb daca se potrivesc la kawa 454 ltd(en 450)?....

Multam de idee .. o sa caut si un strungar sa refac scarita stricata(singurul care il stiu e la vreo 30 de km de mine dar oricum nu renunt la a cauta una nebusita Hmm idee .. ce zici de asta .. .. tabla de vapor de aproape 1 cm grosime .. taiate 2 buc si dat gaura in mijlocul lor exact cat sa intre boltul de legatura dintre scarita si cadru ( nu de altceva da vreau sa ii pun si arcul care o tensioneaza) .. o a treia placuta prinsa cu surub de scarita rupta( bineinteles vechile urechi polizate .. si toata treaba asta sudata (ma rog .. noile urechi si placa de legatura cu scarita ) Nu imi dau seama cat de estetic o sa fie dar daca lucrez curat si vopsesc frumos s-ar putea sa nu se vada deloc diferenta corect ?

HAh asta e buna tot limanu si nu ne-am intalnit pana acum ... interesant . Poate ne iese de o plimbare pe duminica dupa amiaza . Cat ai dat pe cauciuc la moto-zone ?

PS: .. sry mai sus am incurcat cauciucul cu camera .. stiu ca cei de la moto-zone din constanta aduc camere/ cauciucuri pt motoare... poti incerca la ei .. pe bld IC Bratianu , dupa Podul de la Butelii 250 m pe partea dreapta cum mergi catre Murfatlar , incearca la ei .. nu sunt f scumpi dar eu tt nu am inca bani sa imi iau o guma noua

Pava daca ai jantele spitate nu poti pune tubeless , sau mai degraba zis e prea greu si ceva riscant .. la faza cu cauciucul .. hmm 140/90 r 15 e o marime foarte ingrata .. si eu am la fel si ma dau de ceasul mortii sa imi gasesc o guma la un pret rezonabil si sa nu o iau second (deh suntem in criza nu ) M-as baga si eu la niste plimbari da am o mica problema - tre sa intru in legallitate - prea multi km in afara legi si am strans oleaca de spaima - asha ca nu ma misc decat local si f putin O chestie nu m-am lamurit .. exista sau nu vreun club in zona ? .. si daca da sincer m-ar interesa unu pt cruiser-asi nu de baieti cu vitezane care alearga cu 170 - 200 la ora si vin si eu din spate cu 100 - 120 cu batrana mea . Hmm si inca o chestie .. informati si voi un ignorant in ale mecanicii unde gasesc si eu un mecanic bunicel in mangalia ca vad ca ies din ce in ce mai des si ar cam trebui reglate una alta pe la motor , carburatore .. , pe unde va schimbati gumele si daca au scule sa imi echilibrez janta la "Furia Oarba "

Uff a, nevoie de ajutor .... Am avut grija sa rup scarita de pe partea dreapta ... si am rupt-o bine , exact de la gaurile de unde se fixeaza pe cadrul mobrei Are careva scarita dreapta fata? (daca pot zice asha ) , cumpar , imprumut , fac orice ... hmm aproape orice ... numai ca sa imi gasesc una . Nu de altceva dar sunt mult mai comode decat majoritatea scaritelor custom la preturi rezonabile pe care le pot gasi in comert , si chiar nu imi place cum arata acum mobra cu scarita legata cu sarma

Tool nu s-au despartit .. chiar vor sa scoata album nou anul asta , dar Maynard mai tine si alte doua formatii in acelasi timp cu Tool : A Perfect Circle si Puscifer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puscifer) Desi diferite ca si concept soundu e extraordinar la ambele, iar la mine merg atat pe motor cat si in masina sau pe langa ele --- GODSPEED---

Haideti sa incercam ceva nou http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpcBQM5vuDM...feature=related acelasi solist , alta formatie http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zw3FTiWRXF8...feature=related

Latimea maxima care merge la en 500 este 150 ... mai mult atinge cureaua; dar bineinteles cum s-a spus mai sus este recomandata dimensiunea din carte Eu imi pun de 150

Lexaral citeste asta in legatura cu uleiurile , iar in legatura cu celelalte piese pt inceput este indicat sa te duci cu talonul in mana la un magazin care vinde piese moto si sa ceri preturile la mai multe marci de filtre .. eu unu merg cu "champion" Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local automotive supply store, . This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice. Price of Motor Oil So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation. The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following: Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation." That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement. The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would result in metal-to-metal contact more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is a reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different. However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives. NEW Motorcycle Oils Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops. Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles. Energy-Conserving Oils Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use. It is common that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, not all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order. Synthetic or Conventional What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice. Frequency Asked Questions What is a reasonable oil-change interval? Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval. Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine? Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money. What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions? Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade more. Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils? Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts. Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Your motorcycle probably can tell the difference. There are many riders, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that not both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really makes a measurable difference. In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) Didn't work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases failed. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications. Heavy-Duty Oils My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with. Castrol RX Super 15w40 Chevron Delo 400 15w40 Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40 Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40 Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite) SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40 Valvoline All Fleet 15w40 Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40 Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One. A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I put it in my own VFR at my last oil change. Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right. There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving. Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection. I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

Acum in functie de buget .. cel mai ieftin 10w - 40 , mai bun 10w-50 sau 15w-50 , iar la marci : Motul , Castrol , Mobil si cel mai smecher AmsOil (pe astea le-am mai folosit eu sau prietenii mei - nu zic ca nu ar fi si altele cel putin la fel de bune ). Eu am Mobil 10 - 40 acum in el si sunt indeajuns de multumit de el , chiar nu am de ce ma plange . Ah si ca sa nu uit .. cauta ca uleiul sa fie semisintetic sau sintetic .. daca vrei un manual de reparatii/specificatii da-mi un pm sau lasa o adresa de mail si caut sa ti-l trimit. PM . Stau in Mangalia deci am parte de schimbari mari de temperatura asha ca o sa trec pe un 10w-50 . Conteaza destul de mult si in ce perioade iti folosesti motorul ( eu unu din octombrie de cand am motorul asta si pana acum am facut aproape 2000 km )

Salutare ! Sunt nou pe forum si nu am un en 500 si precursorul lui din 89 un en 454 , modelul american .http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_z_450_ltd_1989.php ... ignorati "z" ul Din cate am vazut eu prin manualul ala de reparatii sunt f asemanatoare la performante , piese si nu numai De acum o sa vad si eu cat de asemanatoare sunt la preturile la piese . Ma intereseaza si pe mine daca se potrivesc crash bar - urile si tobele de la en 500 la micuta mea .. nu de altceva da alea stock sunt mai mult de sport (gpz) decat de cruiser , si daca aveti habar de un mecanic bun de motoare prin Mangalia .. sau macar Constanta ..nu de altceva da o sincronizare a carburatoarelor si o verificare generala inainte de vara nu strica . Sunt deschis si la sugestii de intretinere / reparatii/customizare de la cunoscatori (ce sa pac si eu nu am top[ic pt en 450 ul meu . Multam anticipat si asfalt uscat. AH si era sa uit ... stie careva de unde pot sa iau si eu o guma spate 140/90-15 m/c 70h second ? .. ca am, iesit cam stramtorat cu banii din vara si pana ce imi revin nu vreau sa stau pe bara

Salutare .. nou pe forum .. fara prea multi km pe 2 roti . Am un kawa ltd 454 , precursorul vulcanului , si am si eu nevoie de sfaturi in legatura cu motorul , plus ca m-ar interesa niste piese second precum ceasurile turometrului si vitezometrului si niste comenzi avansate ... Sa zicem ca preturile de noi nu mi se par justificate ( prea mari) pt un motor atat de batranel ... ca ani dar inca in forma http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_z_450_ltd_1989.php Asa arata acum motorul .. astept si eu niste sugestii de customizare de la oameni cu ceva mai multa experienta