Ancalagon

Revenind la subiect, Indian a fabricat doua motociclete pentru utilizare militara, Indian 741-B si Indian 841 a carui fotografii le-ati putut vedea mai sus. Indian 741 era modelul principal - Army Indian - bazat pe motorul Flathead V-Twin de 30,5 inci cubi a motocicletei civile Thirty-Fifty. Era mai putin puternic ca WLA-ul de 45 de inci cubi de la Harley-Davidson, asa ca a fost folosit pentru misiuni "usoare" - curierat si recunoastere. Nu era asa puternic, dar era foarte fiabil. 741 avea cutie cu trei viteze si ambreiaj actionat la pedala, cum se obisnuia la acea vreme, dar, spre deosebire de WLA, ambreiajul era decuplat cand se apasa cu calcaiul, nu cu varful, asa cum era la HD. Au fost produse 35044 unitati in 3 ani, majoritatea productiei din 1941 si 1942 fiind destinate Angliei si tarilor din Commonwealth prin programul "lend-lease". Modelul 841 a fost produs in paralel, fiind destinat misiunilor in desert. Motorul era de 45 de inci cubi, tot un Flathead V-Twin, dar montat transversal, cu amandoi cilindrii in fluxul de aer, pentru o racire mai buna. In ciuda aspectului diferit, motorul avea majoritatea pieselor identice cu modelul Sport Scout a companiei. Furca fata era un girder, identica cu cea de la 741, iar suspensia spate care la 741 lipsea era un sistem "plunger" asemanator cu cel folosit de BMW-urile Wehrmacht-ului. Solutia transmisiei cu cardan era adaptata si ea din considerente practice, nisipul din desert fiind abraziv pentru lanturi si pinioane expuse. Comenzile erau mai apropiate de ce utilizam noi astazi, cu ambreiajul la mana si schimbatorul la picior, la fel ca si la modelul boxer de desert XA al concurentei, HD. La fel ca si XA-ul, s-au fabricat mai putin de o mie de exemplare, dintre care mai putin de 50 au intrat in utilizarea armatei, restul fiind vandute civililor. Poze (ultimele trei sunt 841, restul sunt 741B):

Ma bag si eu in seama ca chopperistu'-n lapte: s-a facut raid din USA pana in Tara de Foc cu doua Harley-Davidson un pic modificate... Apropo de ce se zicea mai sus ca te poti "longwayround-ui" cu orice...

Indian 841 s-a vrut una din replicile americane la BMW in al doilea razboi mondial. Spre deosebire de Harley-Davidson acre a facut un model copiat aproape 100% Indian a fost creativ si a realizat un 2 in V frontal - Moto Guzzi a reluat ideea ceva mai tarziu. Nu s-au realizat prea multe exemplare de motociclete de acest fel deoarece US Army a considerat ca Jeep-ul e mai potrivit... Detalii: farul mic de camuflaj deasupra farului principal, cutia de munitie pe suportul de pe aripa spate, stop de camuflaj, far spate de camuflaj...

Cred ca a tastat gresit safarian in loc de saharian... Sper... Nu? Altfel, am si eu un suzukian sibian japonian plastician de stepa ugrica...

Adevarat M72, intr-adevar... Jos palaria...

http://stream9.broadbandvideo.com/BBV/cr/0...mv?MSWMExt=.asf

Eu am vazut un sistem facut pe esapamentele de pe Volusia: inainte de amortizoarele propru-zise exista o teava care uneste cele doua tevi de esapament pentru egalizarea presiunii, bla-bla... Un tip a facut in teava respectiva o prelungire pe care o poate deschide sau inchide cu un cablu ca de soc, facand zgomot cum vrea el. Nimic electronic.

Respectiv: Donor principal Dnepr 11 Cadru: proiectat de 2 tipi de la Ducati zice-se pentru 2 sticle de votca Suspensie spate: inexistenta. Punte spate: Lada VAZ-2106 Roti spate: Ceva de Opel Cardan: modificat cu o articulatie suplimentara Frane spate: hidraulice Frane fata: inexistente Sa: artizanala Faruri: faruri de ceata no-name-uri asiatice Vopsea: din spray Performante: drequ stie...

Hehe, nu m-ai prins cand luam topicuri din 2003...

Seile astea cu arcuri old-school sunt intr-un mare fel, intr-adevar...

Mai e o varianta - faci un cadru custom, pui pe el motorul si restul si din 2 in 2 ani le muti pe cadrul original inainte de a te duce la verificare. In rest, multi vad, putini pricep, o gramada te admira...

Mai vulpoiule, se vede ca nu te-ai uitat la Heidi... si nici eu... Ce-mi plac glumele mele... De fapt, cred ca toata tara asta va intra in masterat la Academia lui Florin Salam...

Niste filtre de aer mai interesante de la D&M Custom Cycle: http://www.dmcustomcycle.com/category/Air%20Cleaners Sigur le-ati mai vazut pe unele pe customuri. Ma gandeam sa incerc o confectionare artizanala din inox...

Scuze, Roby, am crezut ca e la alt topic si i-am raspuns la om cat de exhaustiv am putut...

Fa-ti de inox, iasa superb si la un pret absolut rezonabil..; Do or do not, there is no try...

E usor de coborat la Intruderele astea - e exact ca la Volusia mea, ai sub craddle doua piese asa-zise dog-bones pentru ca seamana cu "oasele" din desenele animate - faci altele mai scurte sau nmai lungi si modifici garda la sol. Uite un link de unde poti sa te inspiri: http://www.johnskits.com/ sau gasesti informatii pe www.volusiariders.com. All you need is some 1/4 inch steel bar stock 1 1/2 inches wide, a hack saw and a drill with a 1/2 inch diameter drill bit. Of course it's always a good idea to know how much you want to lower your scooter before starting. For most people, 2 to 2 1/2 inches are plenty to give your scooter that cool squat look in the rear. For more vertically challenged individuals 3 to 3 1/2 inches may be in order. And if you want that totally slammed look then 4 inches is the only way to go. Lowering your Vol or C50 is a simple matter of replacing the stock rear suspension linkage (known as the "dog bones" by some folks) with a longer version. This effectively lowers the rear of the bike without altering the function of the shock absorber. It also changes how you sit on the bike as it affects the overall geometry of the chassis. You sit lower to the ground which means you may have to adjust the handlebar position and relocate the windshield, if you have one, to better accommodate the new riding position. It changes how your feet rest on foot pegs too. You may find that forward shifted controls are needed to compensate for this change. Ok, so what's the benefit of all this? Slamming the rear end lowers the center of gravity. This means better stability at lower speeds and nimbler handling at higher speeds. It moves your feet closer to the ground, which means those less tall, can sit flat footed on the pavement. A hidden benefit comes from adjusting, moving and/or changing other characteristics such as handlebars, foot pegs and windshields. This allows you to custom fit your motorcycle to you- to make it fit your physique, your personal attributes. This allows you to make your bike really yours. Ready to get started? A stock linkage is pictured below. It is a stamped piece of steel about 6 7/8 inches long with a hole drilled in either end so it can be bolted to the shock and swing arm. If you pull the right side cover off of your scoot you can see it mounted at an angle just behind the shock. The first step, in case you haven't done so already, is to decide how much you want to lower your bike. That's a personal decision and I won?t get involved with that. For those of you who have decided, take a look at the graph below. In it you will find the data you need to make your lowering kit. To determine how long to make the linkage, first look up the amount of drop you want in the bottom most line. Let's say, fer instance, you want a 3 1/2 inch drop. Find 3.5 on the bottom line. Directly above that you will find 6.4375. This is the length of the linkage in inches center to center (c/c) of the holes needed to get that 3 1/2 inch drop. Now determine how long overall the new linkage has to be. Simply add 1 3/8 (1.375) to that number to determine the overall length of the new linkage. This gives the extra material needed on both ends for strength and for shaping after drilling the bolt holes. So, 6.4375 + 1.375 = 7.8125 or roughly 7 13/16 inches is the total length. The 1.375 constant applies to all lengths c/c contained in the graph. If you want a 1 inch drop, then the equation becomes 5.8125 + 1.375 = 7.1875 inches overall length. The picture below shows the different length linkages needed to give the amount of the drop stated. Now you can cut two pieces of steel to what ever length you need. Now that the steel is cut, measure up 11/16 (0.6875) inch from one end and mark the spot. Do the same on the opposite end. Measure to 1/2 the width of the material, which should be 3/4 (0.750) inch if you are using 1 1/2 inch stock. Mark that spot. Connect that mark with the one measured up from the end. You should have a + marking where to drill the hole. Mark the opposite end the same. Once the hole locations are marked, center punch the intersecting points of the lines. Now you can drill away! Be sure to remove any burrs or sharp edges from around the holes after they are drilled. Now it's time to shape the linkages. You can get fancy here if you like and style your new linkages after the OE version by cutting in the dog bone shape. Or, you can leave them square if you like. I personally prefer the added strength of the extra steel by leaving them square. The choice is yours. But, the ends have to be rounded for clearance of the shock and frame members no matter which way you go. You can use a compass or anything round to trace the shape of the rounded end onto the linkage. Then it can be cut, filed or ground into shape. Don't forget to apply some paint to your new linkages after final shaping. link_install.pdf Asa e la Volusia - ramane sa adaptezi la 1500 - s-ar putea sa fie exact la fel, cadrele seamana foarte mult...

6 L la suta daca mergi domol, dar la cilindreea asta daca bagi cox prin oras iti zic eu ca iei 10... Iar cat priveste cuplul, ce dreq sa facem cu el de la o valoare in sus - sa aram ogorul? Cred ca baietii astia s-au prins ca ne plac motoarele si incearca sa ne antreneze intr-o spirala consumista... Cum zice si titlul topicului, mai punem niste muschi pe cruisere si mai ademenim niste oameni sa-si vanda "fostele" ca sa-si ia "noile"... Voua chiar va plac startrekismele astea noi?

Era un topic de Volusia... Gasesti greu la ocazie, suntem putini cu modelul asta, unele se potrivesc de la alte Intrudere, M50, etc... Noi gasesti la highwayhawk, respectiv Motomarket in P-ta Romana sau de pe ebay... Eu am niste suporti Five Stars pentru coburi de plastic gen Givi sau Kappa, daca vrea cineva...

La Balanta se cromeaza, dar nu piese de dimensiuni mari...

Gasesti roti mai late turnate pentru Intruder dar sunt foarte scumpe. Poate se potrivesc cele de la ultimul model, M109 sau ceva de genul asta, dar ma indoiesc ca gasesti la dimensiunea de peste 300. Uite un producator, pune-le o intrebare: http://www.cruiseconcepts.biz/wheels.asp Sau mai bine asta: http://rccomponents.com/suzukiproducts/suzcruisefwheels.aspx

Respitezi la Basty roata ta cu o janta mai lata - problema e daca vrei s-o si cromezi... Si mai trebuie sa nu dea cardanul in margine. La un dragstar nu prea ai loc, trebuie sa modifici bascula de la leagan si trebuie sa vezi cam cat te lasa cardanul sa-l duci lateral...

R&B e ok pana la tavan care pentru oameni inalti devine un prilej de amintire a tuturor injuraturilor dragi si la scaunele "custom" care te antreneaza pentru choppere old-school cu cadru rigid... De mentionat si aerisirea deficitara... remember Ypres, primul atac chimic din WW1...

Tot mai mare cilindreea, racire pe apa, respectare de noxe si de zgomot goana dupa cuplu si putere raportata tot mai mica... Si consuma cat masinile. Nu cred ca e un drum sanatos...

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