Intrebare Generala Carburatoare

[Baiazid]

Ma refer doar la cele vacuumatice.

 

Sunt 2 reglaje:

 

1. nivelul plutitorului

2. surubul de aer

 

Ce regim afecteaza fiecare? Adica Relantiul este conditionat de X iar regimul de mers in ture de Y.

 

X = 1 sau 2?

Y = 1 sau 2?

 

 

Ideea e ca eu am amestec bogat in relanti si foarte sarac in mers!

[pistolaru]

3. Cuiul sertaraselor (cu 5 pozitii)

 

X = 2

Y = 1, 3

 

Deschide 1/2 tura suruburile de aer (ar trebui sa ajungi pe la 3 ture) si ridica o pozitie cuiele sertaraselor.

 

La nivel nu umbla, verifica doar sa fie la fel in toate 4 carburile, si ca inchid ca lumea cuiele pontou (la a mea curgeau).

[Baiazid]

3. Cuiul sertaraselor (cu 5 pozitii)

 

X = 2

Y = 1, 3

 

Deschide 1/2 tura suruburile de aer (ar trebui sa ajungi pe la 3 ture) si ridica o pozitie cuiele sertaraselor.

 

La nivel nu umbla, verifica doar sa fie la fel in toate 4 carburile, si ca inchid ca lumea cuiele pontou (la a mea curgeau).

 

1. schimb zilele astea filtrul de aer si mai fac o proba

2. pun surubul de aer cum ai zis tu

3. sa vad la ce nivel pun plutitorii ... ma uit in carte (13-14 mm)

4. nu as umbla la cuie ca asa au fost si cand mergea motorul bine

[Axa cu Scame]

Nivelul in carb iti influenteaza mersul in orice turatie

 

Reglajul de aer conteaza numai la relanti si primul sfert al cursei acceleratiei.

 

Sincronizarea afecteaza toata plaja de turatie.

 

 

Atentie, cuie pontou uzate care ba nu inchid, ba blocheaza iti scot peri albi. Nu intotdeauna le dibuiesti proband cu mana. La fel si valvele de soc care nu mai inchid bine, iti dau peste cap toata functionarea carburatorului.

 

Spor

[pistolaru]

Carburile mikuni sunt un ghimpe in kur cand se uzeaza. Mie mi-a scos peri albi gsxul, nu prea regret ca l-am dat.

[Baiazid]

Si ultima intrebare ref la surubul mix aer:

 

El inchis la maxim ce inseamna: mult aer sau multa benzina?

 

Adica sa stiu cum fac "blending"-ul

 

Noroc ca am 2 baterii de carburatoare. Cu una fac experimente!

[pistolaru]

Deschizi surubul de amestec - ai mai multa benzina pe circuitul de soc, si poti sa scazi nitel relantiul. Desi i se mai zice "de aer", pe acolo trece benzina.

 

Uite ceva documentatie (e plin netul, in special forumurile de pe-afara):

 

The elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression.

 

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

 

Carb Cleaning 101

Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

 

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

 

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

 

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the butt or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

 

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

 

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

 

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

 

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

 

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

 

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

 

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

 

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

 

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

[ubord]

in regimuri mici de turatie (relanti si un pic mai sus ) conteaza reglajul de relantisi nivelul.

in regimuri ridicate conteaza doar nivelul de benzina , pozitia cuiului de pe pahar si vacuumatica pe care o genereaza motorul.Un motor uzat care nu mai are compresie , cu ghiduri pe supapapele de admisie uzate , nu va avea acelasi regim vacuumatic si va trebui sa-i dai benzina ca sa pastrezi amestecul corect.Valabil si la K-uri , si la Jikov-uri....

Intotdeauna surubul de reglaj de la relanti este pe aer, si desfacindu-l slobozi mai mult aer, inchizindul .....

Niciodata nu-i prea tirziu sa invatam sa ne reglam/dereglam carburatia, cum scria in manualul de simson , 'utilizarea corecta a masinii va da incredere si satisfactie conducatorului'...cam asa ceva

[yo4hgx]

Ma refer doar la cele vacuumatice.

 

Sunt 2 reglaje:

 

1. nivelul plutitorului

2. surubul de aer

 

Ce regim afecteaza fiecare? Adica Relantiul este conditionat de X iar regimul de mers in ture de Y.

 

X = 1 sau 2?

Y = 1 sau 2?

Ideea e ca eu am amestec bogat in relanti si foarte sarac in mers!

 

 

...vesnica problema: carb'urile!!! am mai vb despre ele si in alt topic.

 

inainte de orice trebuie precizat ca discutia comporta 2 situatii: standard si kit de "preparare".

in cazul kiturilor (jigloare, ace, arcuri de vacuum), pt un rezultat optim este necesara inlocuirea filtrului de aer si a tobei cu altele mai "rapide" si abia apoi se face "tuning"ul propriu zis.

 

 

 

fara sa intru in amanunte, avem de'a face cu 4 reglaje: la ture mari, medii si mici (raportat la rpm maxim) si "idle" - cautandu'se acea conditie de "rezonanta", adica amestecul "ideal" pe toata plaja de turatie, motorul "tragand" liniar, fara caderi sau ruperi brushte de putere.

 

in dorinta castigului de putere exista tendinta imbogatirii amestecului uneori pana la niveluri inimaginabile!!!

 

in lipsa analizorului de gaze, empiric, reglajele se fac imbogatzind progresiv amestecul pana cand devine suprasaturat. vom sti ca acest lucru s'a intamplat cand motorul va "trage" mai bine rece decat atunci cand se incalzeste. atunci vom "da inapoi" la reglajul anterior ca fiind "ideal".

 

 

fiecare zona de interes (reglaj) va afecta si celelalte zone in "cascada". dupa indicatiile profesionistilor reglajul se face "de sus in jos":

 

luam exemplu un motor cu rpm maxim cca 11000 (pana in roshu), astfel vom avea 3 zone de interes: >8000, 5-7000, 1-3000 si respectiv "idle" .

 

1. >8000rpm - se regleaza din jigloare. in cazul "standard" nu prea avem ce face. cu kit'uri da randament numai daca se schimba si filtrul si/sau evacuarea.

 

2. 5-7000rpm - ridicand nivelul "acelor" (coborand "clipsurile") obtzinem un amestec mai bogat. in general ele sunt presetate la nivelul 3 (din 5). functie de mai multe variabile el poate fi modificat insa cu teste dupa fiecare schimbare urmarindu'se punctul unde motorul va trage mai bine rece decat cald. atunci stim ca amestecul e suprasaturat si vom reveni la setarea anterioara.

 

3. 1-3000rpm - nivelul benzinei. se pleaca de la nivelul recomandat de producator si se modifica inaltimea plutitoarelor progresiv cate 0.5-1mm urmarind acelasi punct unde amestecul devine suprasaturat.

 

4. "idle" - suruburile "pilot" de aer (de fapt de benzina - inshuruband saracim amestecul, deshuruband il imbogatzim). ne jucam cate 1/2 tura urmarind punctul unde relant'iul este rotund, motorul turandu'se si revenind cel mai usor. cand motorul ramane turat, sau "se gandeste" pana revine se zice ca amestecul e prea sarac, cand se "balbaie" si "rupe" pana isi ia ture se zice ca e prea bogat.

 

repet, fiecare zona influentzeaza intr'o oarecare masura toata plaja de turatii, insa in lipsa unui reglaj profesional cu analizor de gaze e mai bun decat deloc. un amestec "un pic" mai bogat da senzatia de putin mai multa putere insa nu trebuie uitat ca ungerea devine deficitara iar consumul creste dupa parerea mea nejustificat. altfel, un amestec prea sarac va face, pe langa faptul ca "nu trage", ca motorul sa "incinga".

[Klaus]

Este posibil ca un gsx 550 es sa consume 10-12 la suta? avand in vedere ca compresia la ultimi 2 cilindrii este pe la 4 si un pic iar la primii doi(dreapta) are 8 si un pic,,, cu un mers total nesportiv vreo 60-70 la ora .

[bcristian]

Este posibil ca un gsx 550 es sa consume 10-12 la suta? avand in vedere ca compresia la ultimi 2 cilindrii este pe la 4 si un pic iar la primii doi(dreapta) are 8 si un pic,,, cu un mers total nesportiv vreo 60-70 la ora .

 

La asemenea uzura, da, e posibil, de fapt ma mir ca mai merge. Oricum, deja problema nu e la carburatoare ci la motor, fie supape fie segmenti. Carburile se regleaza abia dupa ce ai adus motorul in parametrii normali.

 

P.S. esti sigur ca ai masurat corect compresia?

[Klaus]

de 3 ori am masurato, acelas rezultat, azi am dat motorul jos maine poimaine il schimb cu unu de rezerva.