T I M B E R L A N D

se scrie si se pronunta CEILALTI nu ceilanti..domnul instructor ai fi surprins sa vezi ca in accidente minore moto iese dauna totala pe cand o masina are un far spar si o aripa indoita

ia d-aici spor la citit Adjusting Suspension You should now have the rear of the cycle serviced with good bearings, proper spring, correct sag, and good oil and nitrogen pressure in the shock. The forks should have good oil, proper oil height, and proper springs and race sag. This article will deal with learning how to adjust the forks and shock to achieve the base settings for your riding style. To start, you need a little knowledge of how the adjusters work. When you turn the clickers you are allowing a portion of the oil to bypass the valving mechanism. This will either stiffen or soften the dampening depending on the direction you turn the clickers. With most clickers, turning the screw clockwise will stiffen the action and turning the screw counter-clockwise will soften the action. If you have a KTM 1998-2001 with a black knob on the shock compression adjuster it will work just the opposite: clockwise softens the action, counter-clockwise stiffens the action. The clickers located on the rear shock work as follows: the clicker on the top of the shock (as installed on the cycle) is the compression adjuster. The clicker at the base of the shock is the rebound adjuster. On the forks, the clickers on the top are the rebound adjusters and at the base of the fork are the compression adjusters. But on Showa twin chamber forks (found on Suzuki 125’s from 1993 to present, Suzuki 250’s from 1993 through 2000, and Honda 250’s and 450F’s from 1997 to present), the clickers are reversed. At the top of the fork is compression and at the base of the fork is rebound. If a shock has only one adjuster, normally it will be rebound. If a fork has only one adjuster, normally it will be compression. The next points are very important when you start to adjust the clickers. First and VERY IMPORTANT – ALWAYS START WITH REBOUND. Rebound dampening is where your control comes from. If rebound is too hard (slow) it will Pack (not return fully) causing the suspension to be harsh – therefore fooling you into thinking the compression dampening is too stiff. If the rebound is too soft (fast) it will pogo (bouncing around) this time causing someone not experienced in suspension tuning to think the compression dampening is the problem. The next step is to turn the clicker clockwise until seated, then turn counter–clockwise, counting the number of clicks. Then, using a magic marker, write your base settings on the fork and shock for both compression and rebound-i.e. 12C -- 10R. You can either use the factory original settings or, if units have been worked on by suspension tuners, their recommendations, or the middle adjustable range if you do not have a recommended setting. The next step is to use a short practice trail – 1/2 mile long or less – with a variety of different types and sizes of bumps. You do not want a long trail. You need a short trail that can be ridden a lot of times so that the computer under your helmet can average out what your suspension is doing. You can’t do this on a long trail. Now for the fun part: Start the cycle and, with screwdriver on hand, head out to the practice trail. Wear full riding gear, have race sag properly set, proper spring rates, and the clicker positions written on the suspension units. 0Start riding your practice trail as close to race speed as possible for about 10 minutes so that you can get a good feel for how the suspension is working with these base settings. Now you are going to screw up the suspension on purpose to get a feel for how it reacts when one of the adjusters is improperly adjusted. This is called CONTROLLED SCREW-UP. Start with the rebound adjuster on the suspension unit that felt the worst to you (remember, you ALWAYS start with rebound), turning it clockwise 6 clicks (harder or slower). Now the unit will tend to pack. Remember, if you are adjusting forks, you normally have a rebound adjuster on each fork – be sure to turn both an equal amount. Now start riding, slower at first, and as you get a feel for how the improperly adjusted unit is reacting, try picking up the pace to get the feel of a packing suspension unit. After about 10 minutes, stop riding and make a mental note of how the unit worked compared to how it worked at your base setting. Now turn the rebound clicker back to it’s base setting (6 clicks counter-clockwise) and then turn it another 6 clicks counter clockwise so that the suspension unit will be softer or faster and will tend to pogo. Again start riding slowly and build speed as you feel comfortable. After about 10 minutes, stop riding and judge how the suspension unit felt in the 3 different settings. Now turn the rebound clicker 2 clicks clockwise and start riding. Hopefully this will feel a little better than your last ride. After a period of time, stop and adjust another 2 clicks clockwise and ride. Keep doing this, 2 clicks at a time, until the quality of ride begins to get worse. Then, turn the rebound clicker 1 click counter clockwise and ride, continuing to adjust 1 click at a time until you find your NEW base setting. You now have the rebound on the suspension unit (i.e. fork or shock) that you started with adjusted for the best setting for you. Write this setting down on the suspension unit. Now do the same procedure with the compression adjuster or adjusters: six clicks stiffer than base, 6 clicks softer than base, then 2 clicks at a time toward stiffer until it gets too stiff, then 1 click toward softer until you reach the ideal setting. Do the same for the other end of the cycle. Now you have both ends adjusted for your practice trail and you have experienced poorly adjusted suspension units. When you ride or race somewhere else the computer under your helmet will be able to help you get things tuned in very quickly. Remember – write down these NEW base settings on the suspension units and in a race log. This will help you get things set up right when you go back to a previously ridden course. A FEW TIPS. From the base settings that you have tuned for yourself: For Sand runs, adjust to stiffen compression and slow rebound. For Rocks, Roots, and Potholes, adjust to soften compression, slow rebound. For Mud, adjust to stiffen compression, speed up rebound. If your shock has a high speed compression adjuster, it does not have clicks. Therefore, you will need to adjust by PARTS OF A TURN from full stiff (clockwise) turning out – i.e.: 1 turn, 1 5/8 turns, etc. Work on tuning this adjuster just as you would the screw clickers. Remember: Always start with rebound adjustment and, if in doubt as to which adjuster is off, always do rebound. The rebound adjustment is the most important but the hardest to determine if it is right or wrong. By doing rebound first you will not get fooled into thinking the problem is compression.

Man , la Xr nu am nici o treaba : porneste la prima pedala indiferent de temperatura de afara , cu relantiul n-am probleme ...nu pot sa ii gasesc un punct slab la aceasta motocicleta (multumesc lui Yzu ca a stat pe capul meu sa iau Xr:)) ....aa am gasit un punct slab : pedala de la schimbator am reusit sa ii rup nuturile cu cizmele Acerbis ...avea putin joc si am neglijat iar duminica la intoarcere din padis am obs ca la retrocedarea treptelor nu intra calumea , am venit cu a 3 a pana acasa si acuma ma uit pe ebay sa iau o pedala ca la noi cer porcii cam mult ....

oare G450x?....ajunge el inapoi la Xr

asa pateste nevasta la xt125r-ul ei....nu sta la rece la relanti decat cu socul tras sau in cel mai fericit caz cu socul la jumate ...se poate face ceva oare? parca ar fi prea mic relantiul si surub de reglaj nu are..

e voie cu orice tip de remorca (am vazut in ungaria pe autostrada o masina mica ce tragea o remorca cu barca)

nu man , era loc pt odihna si fumat asa scria pe baraca

cam 11 litri intra in rezervor , am avut 3 litri la mine in plus dar nu a fost nevoie , am ajuns cam la limita inapoi

depinde ce moto pozezi....la o motocicleta de hard enduro pe vreme de asta ii plac pozele ...noroi , noroi...noroi,,, o iesire , 2 motociclete soare la plecare la ora 7.30 ploaie muuuulta din Marisel pana dupa Poiana Horea putin soare de la Doda Pili pana la Ic Ponor , zapada inspre Padis si apoi ploaie pana acasa un total de 230 km parcursi , viteza medie pe bord comp 70 km/h indiferent de starea drumului

de unde dumnezeu iti vin ideile astea? auzi tu sa desfiintezi niste stalpi ca reisarii sa poate merge...ia-o mai usor tati si nu patesti nimic/.

la fel am patit si eu la xr ...la rece , ca la cald o ia la sfert de pedala , si aia data asa mai usurel cu farul am observat si eu ...nu stiam ce dreq nu o ia...lasa man , astea sa fite cele mai mari probleme ( ca altii baga pompe de apa , senzori si alte acareturi "moderne" la greu)

ce a fost pana la urma?

nu merge link-ul ....am un prieten interesat de ceva de genul...un pret si un nr de tel te rog

in cazul asta uite ce antifurt folosesc eu : si pe langa mai am niste "scule" care taie rau ii invit pe domnii hoti

no asta nu mai stiu ca nu am testat...dar atunci nu ar fi mai ok un antifurt moto dedicat?

de la Fieru , sau de la praktiker (am vazut ca au de vanzare la metru) nu mai retin care era cel mai gros

am citit tot ...ai un mod aparte de a relata ....foarte frumos ...va admir...pt asa iesiri am luat eu o Honda xr 440 , mai putin pe asfalt ca se tocesc crampoanele...

SC MOTO PETRAS SRL Cluj-Napoca , str. Sarmizegetusa , nr. 10 Service autorizat R.A.R. seriozitate , Andrei este un mecanic foarte meticulos , lucreaza atent , este foarte curat in atelier ceea ce spune multe despre un mecanic...am fost cu 3 motociclete la el si am fost de fiecare data foarte multumit de serviciile sale ..Recomand Biasini ---am sunat la ei pt ceva semiringuri de furca pt Honda ..a raspuns unul si mi-a zis sa-l sun pe colegul sau ca el nu e la birou , iar cand am sunat pe celalalt numar mi-a zis respectivul la fel : "suna-l pe colegul ca nu sunt la birou" ...urma sa ma sune unul din ei in cateva ore dar nu m-a mai sunat nimeni...deci un mare minus din partea mea.. de restul nu stiu nimic sa iti zic

nu ti rusine? sau esti beat? ce iti bati joc de copil? SC MOTO PETRAS SRL Cluj-Napoca , str. Sarmizegetusa , nr. 10 Service autorizat R.A.R. Firma presteaza urmatoarele servicii : - revizii periodice - constatari defectiuni - reglaje si sincronizari - lucrari de intretinere - reparatii mecanice si electrice - comercializare piese de schimb , accesorii si consumabile - reparatii carene - transport cu remorca MOTO (daca este necesar) Program de lucru : Luni - Vineri Orele : 10:00 - 18:00 Sambata : 10:00 - 14:00 Contact : 0744-817.857 0745-801.231 Attached Thumbnails uite aici ..lasa-i pe "batranii" motociclismului ...ca is prea "vechi" si prea figuranti sa mai ajute un nou venit.. Pe mecanic il cheama Andrei ...el te va ajuta cu siguranta...la el imi servisez si eu motocicletele...e de incredere il recomand

ABS?

da da da da da

iti dai seama ce tziganie va fi acolo .... unde-i gratis tot prostanu navaleste ca tatarii....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGLYeYdQOPo altul