“The Road to Cambodgia”

[BlackDirt]

Mie a inceput sa-mi tremure usor roata fata, fix la viteza de 50 de km/h, dupa ce i-am schimbat cauciucul. O fi si de la profilul cauciucului. Zic si eu, chiar daca nu ma pricep prea bine.

[Tsunami]

pai pot apare de la faptul ca

e nestransa roata

rulmenti

frana

 

ultima mi se pare cea mai probabila, sa aibe ceva pe disc

 

la viteza respectiva sa calce usor frana fata sa observe daca se schimba ceva.

inspectia discului, inspectia placutelor, vizual,

 

pe la 40 inseamna vo 5Hz, 300rot/min, adica la 40 se va simti lde 5 ori pe secunda, redu la 20 sa vedem daca bataia e de 2 ori pe secunda

 

daca motocicleta are 2 discuri, numai unul ii face problema poate fi de la un disc stramb sau cu mizerie pe el sau pistonul etrierului a prins mizerie si nu se mai retrage usor

peste 40 inertia dinamica e mai mare si se simte din ce in ce mai putin.

 

just a thought

 

succes

 

 

hehe, alt test

sa mearga mult, cel putin 3-4 km fara sa actioneze deloc fata.

opreste doar cu spatele si verifica temperatura discurile cu degetele din dotare.

discul mai cald inseamna ca e mai cald decat cel rece pen'ca nici iarna nu-i ca vara si deci ori trebuie incalzit si celalalt sau trebuie investigat cel cald

 

daca-mi mai vin idei mai zic.

Mesaj completat

Mie a inceput sa-mi tremure usor roata fata, fix la viteza de 50 de km/h, dupa ce i-am schimbat cauciucul. O fi si de la profilul cauciucului. Zic si eu, chiar daca nu ma pricep prea bine.

 

la tine e vorba de frecarea dintilor cu aerul, nu te uiti la poza din avatar?

 

apropo, verifica sa nu fi uitat alarma pe discul de frana cand a pornit azi dimineata.

asta ar putea fi o cauza

 

sorry guys,

Editat Octombrie 20, 2010 de Tsunami

[sebicozaurus]

Uau..... super tare!

 

Întrebare întrebătoare referitor la această tură:

 

- ați făcut fiecare CPD (cau CPD.... cum s-o numii)

- cum ați rezolvat cu vizele pentru Iran, Pakistan Âşi India? Cât timp a durat?

 

ÂŞi eu plănuiesc aÂşa ceva pentru la anu destinația fiind Goa (India)

 

Un răspuns la aceste întrebări mi-ar fii de super ajutor.

 

Mulțumesc

[Dan Cata]

Aseara am dat de pagina de pe FB si ma tot uitam la poze

 

Frumos!!

[Thomas]

Baietii nu (prea) intra pe aici, cel mai bine, legat de intrebari, e sa le adresati direct pe contul lor de Facebook

 

 

Update pentru cei fara cont pe FB

October 19, 2010 – update 3. Our next target is Erzurum, which is 600km away. After that, another 300 km to the boarder and we will leave Turkey for the Great Persia. The weather is fine, warm and nice. Keep in touch and thank you all for your kind words and support!

[Mario MT 03]

"The bikes are running well, but the V-strom has a trembling

...on the front wheel bellow 40km/h. Guys, please help with ideas, I don’t know

what’s wrong with it."

Adica ii tremura roata fata la sub 40kmh. Care le are cu mecanica poate ii face omului un bine si ii da un sfat.

 

 

V-Strom-ul e o motocicleta foarte fiabila, cel putin din ceea ce am citit eu pe net si din discutiile cu alti motociclisti. Singurul mare defect al V-Strom-ului este suspensia fata, care face un zgomot foarte ciudat cand se franeaza mai brusc sau la viteze mai mici. Marea parte a posesorilor de V-Strom schimba imediat suspensia fata complet cu una aftermarket (e o hiba binecunoscuta, cel putin pe aici).

Nu stiu daca e valabil si in cazul de mai sus, dar daca e asa tot pe net am citit ca nu se intampla nimic cu timpul, in afara de zgomotul ala ciudat.

Uite aici 2 linkuri cu 2 persoane diverse care s-au plans de aceeasi problema, cam toti au raspuns sa nu isi faca probleme, daca nu ii deranjeaza zgomotul ala de ''clonk''.

 

http://www.motoclub-tingavert.it/t352433s.html

 

http://www.motoclub-tingavert.it/t488476s.html

 

In special in al 2-lea link se plangea de vibratii lejere la viteze de 50-60 km/h si mai mici.

 

A raspuns apoi asa : ok ragazzi ! risolto il problema 0509_banana.gif 0509_banana.gif qualche giro di vite sulle regolazioni e stà tutto fermo come su un binario icon_razz.gif -- adica a rezolvat problema cand a invartit niste suruburi pe la reglaje.

Sper ca v-am fost de folos , macar intr-o mica masura.

 

Drum bun !

[ali baba]

Întrebare întrebătoare referitor la această tură:

 

- ați făcut fiecare CPD (cau CPD.... cum s-o numii)

- cum ați rezolvat cu vizele pentru Iran, Pakistan Âşi India? Cât timp a durat?

Subscriu. Am aceeasi intrebare.

[Pacasac]

Day 4 October 20, 2010 – update 1. We left Samsun this morning, riding through a breath

taking scenery along the coast. After some 200 km we left the coast turning

south towards Erzurum.

The road took us up mountain until we reached 2409 meters and a temperature of

only 10 degrees Celsius. The weather was kind to us, no rain, perfect for

riding. The curves of the road were inspiring and we “raced” a little.

 

Day 4 October 20, 2010 – update 2. The bikes are in great

shape. The Suzuki is still trembling at low speed but we don’t care any more. We

tend to feel more and more comfortable riding our bikes and this makes our adventure

so much more enjoyable. Tomorrow we will drive another 300 km through Turkey and then “attack Iran”. Our “target”

is to reach the town of Tabriz

by the end of the day.

 

Day 4 October 20, 2010 – update 3. We will cross the border

at Bazargan and hope for a speedy passage. Should the crossing take longer than

expected, we shall give up riding to Tabriz

and stop in Maku. As the internet access will be scares the next days, we may

not be able to come back to you frequently, but we shall try our best to keep

you up-dated.

[Dan Popescu]

Ca de obicei anul acesta Pakistanul va fi ocolit pe mare sau pe uscat sau mai simplu (si mai scump) survolat. Sursa: Ambasada Pakistan. Mai exista o posibilitate cel putin teoretica ca oamenii sa incerce obtinerea vizei (si permisiunii de calatorie pe roti) de la o ambasada din alta tara: Turcia, Iran. O alta fortare a norocului ar fi mersul pe blat...adica obtinerea unei vize de calatorie cu avionul si apoi, cu Allah inainte si incercare de spaga, sa incerce sa intre cu mobra pe roti fara permisiune de calatorie. Ma indoiesc. Ar mai fi si varianta "Rambo" sa incerce sa treaca granita dintre Iran si Pakistan pe langa PCTF; se poate, se stie cum, dar este un pic infractiune si umbla zvonul ca puscaria in Pakistan nu este cea mai confortabila...

 

Cam banuiesc o varianta, sa vedem evolutia lucrurilor.

Editat Octombrie 21, 2010 de Thomas
Sters partea cu "flame". Nu voi permite ca acest topic sa devina precum altele.

[raducu.]

din cate vad in harta lor dinaintea plecarii,vor zbura peste pakistan.

[Semaca]

din cate vad in harta lor dinaintea plecarii,vor zbura peste pakistan.

 

Cum ai tras concluzia asta ?

[raducu.]

Cum ai tras concluzia asta ?

 

asa am dedus de aici:

"I will like to say "Thank you " to the Pakistan embassy for helping us not to see this country ! So , sadly we will have to fly over Pakistan and to make a wish that we will see Pakistan another time !

We are trying now to find a transportation method for the bikes"

 

si din discutiile cu Victor.

 

din harta intr-adevar nu reiese asta.

Editat Octombrie 22, 2010 de raducu.

[Thomas]

Update pentru cei fara cont FB

Road To Cambodia

Pe scurt si te rog florin satraduci tu dupa : am aflat ca nu putem accesa nici un credid card in airan , internetul fuge de noi deci nu avem si tot ce putem face e sa platim cash ! iranul este superb ca peisaj , oameni dar tot ai impresia ca sta cineva in spatele tau ! oamne foarte ambili dar ascunsi !maine incercam sa jungem in tehran sa vedem ce vsi cum cum mai am posibilitatea va mai scriem cate ceva !

Mesaj completat

 

Day 7, October 23, 2010 ? update 2. We left Erzurum and we traveled a very nice mountain

road, at 2.200 meters. The border with Iran was very crowded and we spent

4 hours waiting for our turn. Somebody helped us with our papers and we paid

him 50 euros. Later, we discovered that we paid too much, so we learned our

lesson for the future. I...t was too late to reach Tabriz so we stopped over night in Maku.

 

Din cauza lipsei internetului, deja apar delay-uri.

[Tsunami]

baietii traiesc? evenimente? ajutor?

[Thomas]

Day 8, October 24, 2010–update6. While we stopped for a smoke on the road side, a truck pulled over and two guys approached us with the usual questions. While we were explaining where we come from, one of the men called his son on the mobile to act as a translator. After the conversation, the man offered us 3 mellons as a ..gift. Virgil gave him his baseball cap in return. The man was overwhelmed and so were we.

 

Day 9, October 24, 2010–update1. We arrived in Teheran and went straight to the airport where we were able to negotiate the shipping fee for 4 bikes to India. A young

man was very helpful in getting us a better price so we ended up paying 2400 USD instead of 3400. He also invited us to spend the night at his place, which was on the opposite side of Teheran. We had to cross town at rush hour. Bitching!

 

Day 9, October 24, 2010–update2. We have 1 week till the shipment of our bikes and some money left to travel through Iran. We will spend this time together with our friends from Switzerland, leaving for Kashan, on our way to Shiraz. So far, so good.

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part1. Dear friends, this is a story that we will never forget. We were in Teheran, walking on the streets, in search of a place to eat. We were approached by a tall and strong gentleman, probably in his seventies, who introduced himself as Mr. Bahardush. We started the usual conversation, he gave ...us some tips about what we should visit and asked us if he could be of any assistance.

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part2. We were short on local currency and asked him if he knew where we can change some money. He suggested to try a nearby hotel and led us there. The hotel clerk said he couldn’t help us and directed us to an Exchange Office. Mr. Bahardush offered to show us the way and while doing so, met a fri...end of his, who also joined our group. Unfortunately, the Office was already closed.

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part3. At this point, we kindly thanked Mr. Bahardush for all his help saying we would solve the whole thing at the bank, next morning. He then offered to give us some money so that we can pay for our dinner and expenses. We declined politely. After that, Mr. Bahardush became very determined to sol...ve our problem. He called the owner of the Office and urged him to come and change the money

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part4. The man didn’t show up. Mr.Bahardush left on his bicycle in search of another solution. We were left with his friend who led us to his store, served us drinks and introduced us to his children. He treated us like old family friends. Mr. Bahardush returned and eventually he and his friend exc...hanged our money at the most favorable rate ever (better than the bank’s).

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part5. We asked if we can repay this favor, if we can pay a commission of any kind, but were refused on the spot. After one and a half hours spent with us, Mr. Bahardush gave us his phone number saying we could call him anytime we needed help or advice, then dissapeard in the narrow streets, riding... his bicycle.

 

Tribute to Mr. Bahardush-part6. Judging by the standards of our twisted world, it is difficult to find an explanation for the wonderful kindness we were treated with. Makes you think what an extraordinary experience it is to meet someone like Mr. Bahardush.We were all silent for the rest of the evening, and couldn't stop ...thinking about what just happened. What a great lesson of humanity! Thank you Iran.

 

Si un clip video - http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=...9408&ref=mf

[Tsunami]

Si un clip video - http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=...9408&ref=mf

 

 

very nice, mersi

 

din toata povestea gasesc ca steagul romanesc e deplasat.

dar asta e o parere personala.

poate ca da totusi bine sa elimine din start suspiciunea ca ar putea fi americani sau englezi..

[ali baba]

Excelenta povestea cu Mr. Bahardush. Pune in perspectiva ceea ce numim noi "civilizatie" si modul stupid in care ii vedem pe musulmani ca inapoiati, cand, din punct de vedere al valorilor umane clasice, este exact invers. Dupa asa o intamplare vezi lucrurile altfel. Am patit ceva similar in Bursa.

 

Spor

[cria_p]

* impresionant...

un drum nu e doar un drum cu asfalt sau gropi sau pietre si pamant. o calatorie nu e numai atunci cand pleci sa indeplinesti un scop la capatul ei. imi pare bine ca baietii astia si-au dorit atat de mult sa plece spre Cambodgia, incat nici un obstacol nu i-a oprit (si cred ca au fost destule cand si-au planficat calatoria...). scopul e bun si valoros, dar la fel de bune si de pretioase sunt "pietrele" de pe drum.

 

bafta!

[yonatzu]

very nice, mersi

 

din toata povestea gasesc ca steagul romanesc e deplasat.

dar asta e o parere personala.

poate ca da totusi bine sa elimine din start suspiciunea ca ar putea fi americani sau englezi..

 

steagul romanesc nu cred ca l-a pus acolo ca sa dea bine, ci pentru ca asa a vrut calatorul. cand esti pe meleaguri straine, mai ales atat de departe, te intalnesti cu o gramada de straini la fel ca tine, departe de casa lor. marea lor majoritate se mandresc cu tara de unde provin si o arata de cate ori pot (prin imbracamintea care o poarta, insemne pe motor si o spun de cate ori sunt intrebati). si mie imi place sa merg cu tricolorul in fata, chiar daca nu ma consider nationalist. e doar o chestie de gust si de mandrie la urma urmei.

 

eu nu o gasesc deplasata deloc, dimpotriva o gasesc foarte normala. tot parere personala

[B.B.]

Si mie mi se pare normal sa ai steguletul cu tara ta, toti ar trebui sa fim mandri ca suntem romani, ca oricum altceva nu putem fi..

 

Eu am mers cu tricolorul pe moto la intrunirea TA internationala din Germania. Mi se pare super OK si frumos.

[Thomas]

Tricolorul e legatura ta cu tara. In 2001 cand am fost in Iran sa ne cataram pe Damavand, am avut tricolorul mereu agatat pe rucsac, la vedere.

 

Update de la calatori

Day 10

 

Today, we rode to Yazd, and on our way, we stopped for a quick lunch on the side of the road. The menu of the day was ?traveler?s surprise?: heated tuna can and smashed tomatoes. Actually, it wasn?t that bad and we enjoy it. Some local guys followed us with their car as we left the parking, and one of them tried ...to take a photo of us. Unfortunately for him, he dropped his phone and it was spread across the highway in bits and pieces. Victor helped the man get his pieces back and in return, the man hugged him and kissed Victor?s shoulder, as a sign of great esteem. It?s the second time this is happening to us since we are in Iran and it?s very touching to see a complete stranger treating you as his best friend.

We reached Yazd in the evening and we searched the city for our accommodation, a low budget hotel called Silk Road Hotel. We discover the beauty of Yazd, passing through its narrow and ancient streets. We can?t wait till tomorrow for a proper visit.

The hotel is full of backpackers with great stories to tell. Some of them are in Iran for 4 or 5 months. So far our feeling is that we love this country and its beautiful people more and more each day. We wish we would never have to leave this place. Again, the discrepancies between what we know about Iran and the reality here is like the distance to the moon and back.

 

Day 12, 13 & 14

 

We are currently running on a very, very, very low budget. To be honest - we are almost broke. Same thing with our friends, Corina and Christian. They are out of cash worse than we are. Our money will last for another 3-4 days, but we have to make it till Friday. This will be a very interesting period :...). Don?t worry guys, we will make it, there is no other way. In Iran it doesn?t matter how rich you are, because Iran doesn?t care about ATMs, credit cards, traveler checks, Facebook or YouTube. You cannot ask for comfort here and what you keep in your pockets represents everything you have. Period. This is a funny feeling, funny but.... good somehow. It opens new opportunities. We met people we would never have thought we could meet. We also met travelers, guys like us, facing the same challenges, wonders, joys and adventures. They are all looking for life, not for comfort. What a great experience!

We arrived in Shiraz, on Friday ? the day off in Iran. Therefore, the city was a little bit to crowded for our taste, still we enjoyed every minute of it.

The road from Shiraz to Esfahan took us through the mountain desert and it was one of the hardest rides so far. The winds were very strong, as if Iran was testing our strength and will.

We visited the ancient town of Persepolis. One may say that the ruins are not much of an impression, but the history which lies beneath them is overwhelming. As we left the site, a local guide, an archaeologist, started the conversation which by now has almost become a ritual: welcome to Iran, thank you for being here, etc.., but for the first time since our arrival here, we were asked about our education and qualifications. The guide told us archeology ran in his family. His grandfather was part of the German-Iranian team who discovered the Persepolis 80 years ago. We could see in his eyes the pride of having such a great forefather. Once more, we left in a state of wonder and respect for these extraordinary people.

On our way to Esfahan, as it was getting dark, we decided to have our first camping night. We didn?t regret it, because it was the greatest night of our trip.

We watched the fire for hours and admired the multitude of stars in the sky.

Unfortunately, the temperature dropped to 5 degrees and we felt the chill, but again, it was worth it. Thank God for the lovely dinner, again a ?camper menu?: pasta, tomato juice, tuna, beans, aubergine and tomatoes. International kitchen for international travelers. Although our sleep was short, in the morning, Victor had his warm up doing some desert off road with his bike. ?Dromaderul? was performing excellent and Victor enjoyed every minute of it!

In Esfahan we decided to spend the night in a hotel - we all needed a bath and a warm bed. As our departure day is getting closer (the bikes will be air freighted on Tuesday and we will take the plane to India on Friday), we are overtaken by a pensive silence. Our thoughts are the same: we don?t want to leave this wonderful country and it?s great people. Unfortunately, we will have to.

 

Day 16

 

The trip from Esfahan to Qum was one of the hardest so far. The winds were very strong and the cold was very hard to endure. On top of that, we were caught by the rain and our morale dropped with each second. Finnaly, we reached Qum, which is supposed to be one of the most conservative cities of Iran and therefor...e we were somehow excited about it.

It took us more than one hour to find our low budget hotel, because we had an issue with our mapping.

The city of Qum, as shown on the map, is supposed to be divided in two by a large river, and our hotel was right on one of it?s shores. Well, we discovered that the river was actually a drained channel, now transformed into a road. Thank God for a policeman, who althougt didn?t speak any english, managed to give us the right instructions to reach the hotel. He also inform us that ?he loves Romania? ).

We managed to find the hotel and we all agreed that we lacked the energy to have a night out and decided to get our forces back by staying in our room.

The feeling that Iran is trying by any means to delay our departure is geting stronger by the minute. Funny thing, we don?t want to leave either.

 

Day 17 ? Almost famous

 

This was a special day, because we prepared the departure of our bikes to India. We woke up at 6.00 am in order to be in Teheran at 8.30 am. The ride was tough, although the distance between Qum and Teheran is just 120 km. But the rain, the cold and the wind challenged us to our last drop of energ...y. Again, looks like Iran is fighting us to delay our departure.

At the customs, the people jumped to help, as usual, and they did everything in their power to speed up the processes.

Our local fixer, Mozian, together with Peyman (the guy who helped us before), made all the paper work and guided us to every office we needed to pass in order to complete our shipment.

Everybody was kind and helpful. They even decided to cut our expenses by allowing our bikes to be shipped without the regular boxes. This saved us 200 USD/ bike.

Being in the customs brought us back in time. We relived the communist times, when we enter the Custom Chief?s office. Here, the man in charge was the classic bureaucrat: white shirt, pen in the hand, big office and a table full of stamps. Everybody spoke with him with great care and respect, not daring to look into his eyes. We were the only ones who were invited to sit down, and Mozian was sent to bring us cookies and tea. We felt like superstars, and all this just because we are tourists and the color of our skin is different.

Our papers were written in the local language so we signed mountains of papers, not knowing what we are signing, but trusting our fixer to take care of us and our bikes.

We needed a lot of stamps (reminded us of Romania), and every office we went treated us with the same friendliness as the previous one. If a local was in one of the offices we were aiming for, he was immediately thrown out and we were introduced as a national priority. The Custom?s Chief even insisted that Corina should stay in his office while we, the boys, pushed our bikes into the Cargo area! Amazing!

In the Cargo area, we prepared our bikes by taking the gas out, but they allowed us to leave the oil in the engine. While we were doing this, a worker came and after the usual questions, he told us that he thinks that ?everybody hates Iran?. Victor assured him this is not true, and as an example, we let him know that we don?t like Iran, but love Iran. At this point, the man?s face lightened and he looked like a heavy burden had been taken from his shoulders.

Contrary to all the rumors and information about Iran (terrorism, kidnapping, bombing, etc...), our experience was exactly at the opposite end. We made a lot of new friends and we spoke with at least 20-30 locals every day. Imagine that Peyman, a man who barely knew us, left us in his apartment, gave us his keys and went to his business. Soon after, his friends came to keep us company and they stayed with us till late in the night, although they had to work early next morning.

Words cannot describe the respect and gratitude that we feel for this people and their lovely country.

Iran, thank you for having us, you put a big smile on our faces.

[melciu]

very nice, mersi

 

din toata povestea gasesc ca steagul romanesc e deplasat.

dar asta e o parere personala.

poate ca da totusi bine sa elimine din start suspiciunea ca ar putea fi americani sau englezi..

 

Ba chiar o gasesc mai mult decat potrivita. Oamenii care fac ce fac ei au mai mult drept sa-l poarte si sa-l afiseze cu mandrie pe unde merg. Ar fi putut merge si-n pielea goala cu steagul pictat pe ei si tot era mai putin deplasat decat fanfaronii care-l arboreaza in tara asta dar pentru care nu inseamna nimic.

Se mandresc cu locul de unde vin si foarte bine fac. Iti garantez ca un american daca ajungea in Iran isi purta la fel de mandru steagul. Si sansele sunt sa fi fost tratat cu la fel de mult respect si buna-vointa cat au fost tratati ei.

Daca ar fi vrut sa nu fie confundati ar fi purtat insemnele crucii rosii pentru ca misiunea lor chiar le permitea sa o faca.