mihaip

o problema ar fi alternatorul e prea slab si nu cred ca o s-o tina incarcata. Pt o baterie de 10AH ai nevoie de 1 amper sa o incarci -> maninca 12W ca sa o tii incarcata. Pt masina la 50AH -> 5A , 60W .

Iti place design-ul la gsr ? In reclama tv arata bine, dar in realitate am fost crunt dezamagit cand am vazut unul la Targoviste .. parerea mea.

Daca nu vrei sa-i dai mai mult de 180 constant pe autostrada, SV650 e motoreta perfecta. Pt mai mult exista SV1000

portocalii ? .. nu am avut onoarea , pe unde sunt alea ?

I-am panicat pe colegi ca n-am venit azi cu motoru la munca (tin sa mentionez : aveam nevoie de conserva, nu din cauza ploii ) , si m-au luat la intrebari ca le dau palpitatii. Cica au vazut la tv stire cu un motor albastru care a intrat in portiera unui jeep care a facut stanga prin fata lui. Motoru destul de muci.

Nu cred, pt ca la vatamari vine politia la tine la locu accidentului , pe care de altfel n-ai voie sa-l parasesti

Nu stiu in ce Bucuresti traiesti tu, dar mie mi-a fugit spatele fiind aplecat putin pe o trecere de pietoni in timp ce faceam dreapta. Nu franam, poate o idee gaz ca incepeam sa ma indrept, da in nici un caz brutal. E vorba de una din trecerile de pietoni e pe strada aia din fata palatului parlamentului , refacute nou de cand cu francofonia .

1. fa-ti o firma daca nu ai deja 2. daca persoana fizica e problema eu am o firma si iti pot eu cumpara argonul daca asta e singura conditie. Da vezi ca firma mea are profil software-ul .. sa nu ma intrebe aia ce vreau sa fac cu el sau sa existe cine stie ce reglementari de materiale periculoase pentru care sa am nevoie de avize.

2.5 mil este yuasa (ytx9-bs) , exide trebuie sa fie pe la jumatate

I s-a intimplat parca unui baiat la gara de nord cu grivita fix faza descrisa de tine. E un topic nu mai vechi de o luna . Cine tine la capu/picioarele lui, a retinut .

nu stiu prostii ce-s alea mph Vezi ca-l poti desface , desenezi tu ce vrei si pui o foaie de hartie acolo. Bagi niste culori jmechere si gata. Hint ... pastreaza ideea de mph si faci bord cu marcaje duble : mare km/h pina la 300 si mic mph care sa se potriveasca cu km/h actuali .. asta ca sa stii ce viteza ai . bonus : poti sa mergi cu 60 la ora si sa te filmezi ca si cum ai avea 100 in oras

cred ca la unele este delay, la altele nu .. in functie de zodiac. continuand ideea cu 'imbecilii ...' voi ati observat ca inca se mai uda strazile ? !!

Incerc sa copii articolul , e interesant (http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/VoltageRectifierFAQ.htm#Anyone%20analysed%20the%20INSIDE%20to%20check%20for%20faults) : An Autopsy of a Classic (Funduro) F650 Voltage Rectifier / Regulator - Failed Classic VR Yesterday I took Chris from Santa Cruz' dead VR to the Failure Analysis lab and we x-rayed it. I have some pictures that I will include in the final report. The cause of failure was a lead that came loose from what was either a capacitor or diode. It looks like the component spilled its guts, too. We couldn't see much more, shooting through the aluminum heat sink. Chris in Santa Cruz sent me his dead VR for an autopsy / reverse engineering. Below is a composite of two x-ray pictures of the unit, as received, shot through the heat sink. The three vertical bars are connected to the phases (yellow wires) of the alternator. These have diodes stamped into them that engage the two horizontal buss bars in the middle. One bar is ground (brown wire) and the other is positive “12V” out (white/red wire). The green “sense” wire is the small one running up the right side to the regulator portion. See those blobs near the top of the picture? We thought those might be capacitors or diodes. Take a CLOSE look at the one in the middle phase. That doesn’t look right. So we zoomed in on it and saw what is probably the cause of failure for this unit, an open circuit. X-rays have to have a lot of energy to go through metal. The VR is potted in some sort of epoxy. We figured we’d have a better view if we got rid of the metal and the epoxy. An infrared spectrograph indicated that this epoxy was a highly cross-linked compound that probably would not respond to solvents. Sometimes you can heat up an epoxy and it sort of melts, allowing you to remove the potted components. Not this epoxy. This would likely heat up until it started to “decompose” which is a fancy way of saying “catch fire.” So I sawed off the heat sink. This allowed us to shoot lower energy x-rays through the epoxy in the hope of seeing more. We did. If you look very closely in this picture, you can see evidence of circuit board traces toward the right end. And there are clearly a few components there. Lowering the beam energy even more means that you can’t see through the buss bars as well. But you CAN see the traces in the circuit board more clearly. Since the key to this thing is that regulator board, we decided to… remove it. This was done with a vise and hammer and screwdriver. The potting epoxy was laid down in two stages and didn’t adhere to itself homogeneously. So we could split it. And then out came the regulator, dipped in white nylon. Here is the regulator. There are two transistors, three-terminal devices in the lower left quadrant. There are three resistors, on the left side, probably of two values. In the middle section are two other components. The one at the top appears to be a diode and the one below it is probably a resistor. We guess that the diode is a zener diode for a voltage reference. We played with the beam energy a little bit to see if we could get any other clues… We thought we saw a number and found that we did… These three terminal devices are either transistors or silicon controlled rectifiers. We did mass spectrometry on the white stuff (in red below) and found it to be a pretty good match to a known sample of a polydimethysiloxane compound (in blue), commonly called silicone. Paul didn’t have any of the hexo-flouro-bad-shit-solvent on hand in the lab that will dissolve most silicones. So we tried heating it in an oven to 150 degrees C for awhile. Some of the lighter aromatic stuff left, making it a bit more brittle. But it didn’t melt or liquefy at all. If we heated it up much higher, the solder would start to re-flow. Silicone is real easy to carve with a sharp knife. So, Exacto-time it was. * The IR spectrometer said the potting material was a multi-strand polymer epoxy. The means it won't melt, it'll burn. So we didn't heat it up to pull the guts out. Instead, I took it home and cleanly removed the heat sink off with a hacksaw and hammer. * In a few minutes, I am heading back to the FA lab to see if we can read component labels with x-rays that no longer have to have enough energy to pierce aluminum. More as it develops. My one comment so far is that this thing appears to be as crude as all get-out. * Two things. First, what looked like a diode or cap, viewed from above through the aluminum, was actually a solder joint. Next, NFW was Interesting. I know how hard it can be to identify such things thru an x-ray profile. Paul thought they were caps or diodes, too. And he's the one with the keys to the x-ray machine. * Anyway, we surmise that it might have been a cold solder joint perhaps with bad-ass electro migration that caused the circuit to open. Interesting. With the potting, likely it was overheating, and not using higher temperature/stronger solder, which saved them 3 yen per unit. Just curious - were there any air voids/bubbles in the potting material, or was it rather solid? * I'll make the photos available in the report. Paul is gonna be around next week. I'll be at work Mon and Tues, but my boss won't. So likely Paul and I will finish poking around and I will do the write-up and post it where you can see it. Do you want me to post it "privately" for you and K. for pre-release discussion? * We also have a 10m anechoic EMI chamber and complete environmental lab (altitude as well as temp and humidity). * I wonder if the cause was overheating, or vibration? I'm curious because some such (heavy diode) connections are "stamp welded" for assembly, and sometimes bad ones vibrate loose when subjected to heating and cooling cycles. * Two things. First, what looked like a diode or cap, viewed from above through the aluminum, was actually a solder joint. Next, NFW was vibration an issue in this epoxy potting. The diode connections were "stamp welded" I guess, because as near as I can tell, when you pull the buss strips off, all you are pulling them off of is silicon. * Anyway, we surmise that it might have been a cold solder joint perhaps with bad-ass electro migration that caused the circuit to open. * Q. So which portion was the failed connection in? The rectifier, or the V control hybrid part? A. BETWEEN them. The regulator has six terminals. One was upgefuhkt. * Not surprising that it's a hybrid chip (but it's a PITA!) Nippon-Denso is certainly big enough to go that route (designing their own) for manufacturing. If you guys are looking at the chip, you must have an x-ray electron microscope - those suckers are cool! - I used to repair a couple in a previous job. Am copiat articolul cu tot cu poze . Enjoy Exista pe forum un thread mai vechi cu o schema de releu de incarcare care merge . Am implementat-o si eu (cu ajutor de la cineva mai bun la hard decat mine ) si am folosit puntea redresoare de la dacie . In cele din urma m-am impotmolit la impachetare pentru ca tiristorii trebuiau raciti, cablaju protejat .. etc . Problema cea mai mare la repararea unui astfel de releu este scoaterea din rasina in care este impachetat. Dupa aia , daca e doar un traseu topit/intrerupt se poate repara, daca e un tiristor/dioda fututa e mai complicat pentru ca, dupa cum vezi in poza sint bine lipite pe barele alea de metal.

.. gresesti .. 'imbecilii de administratori' au pus delay intre rosu si verde, dar 'jmecherii din bucuresti' stiu de el si 'il iau in calcul' : - verde : trec in pana mea ca am verde - galben : bag mare ca mai e pina la rosu - vad cum se face rosu : trec repede pina nu se pune verde la ailalti .

yep .. de pietonii care incearca sa traverseze pe zebra nu mai zice nimeni nimic, pt ca s-au invatat sa sara din fata nebunilor.

ha-ha .. crezi ca proasta nu s-a asigurat ? S-a bagat ca proasta bazandu-se pe faptul ca matizu e usor si are demaraj bun si va reusi sa 'ia fata' coloanei din sens opus.

Nu mai am releul defect ca am fost curios ce avea in el Daca as fi vazut topicul de mai jos de pe atunci , ti-as fi putut da unul . http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/VoltageRectifierFAQ.htm Cauta sectiunea "An Autopsy of a Classic (Funduro) F650 Voltage Rectifier / Regulator - Failed Classic VR" la sfarsitul paginii si o sa-ti dai seama cam ce se fute la ele . Daca poti repara releul ala, spune-mi si mie ca mi se pare interesant.

are, ca kilometri nu sint interschimbabili cu anii. Evident ca daca faci 1000km/an dupa zece ani nu o sa ai experienta mai multa decat unu care face 10.000km/an. Dar daca faci 10000km in prima luna tot nu ai experienta cit unu care face 10.000km/an. Gandeste-te ca acu o luna cand si-a luat omu motoru afara nu ploua, nu era mizerie pe jos, nu era frig, nu batea vantu .. si sa nu uitam ce spunea piratu : iarna nu-i ca vara , asa ca pina nu treci o iarna nu ai de unde sa stii cum e.

omu se referea la glezna, nu la creier, ca alea dispar odata cu durerea de glezna, daca nu mai repede

pai bine soro .. ti-a fost lene sa te uiti daca ii puteti aduce omului dimensiunea dorita.

Viteza cam mare pt depasit coloana . Ai avut noroc ca era doar un betiv si nu un papuc care sa-ti intoarca in fata. In rest : Uita-te bine la motoreta sa nu abia indoituri/julituri sau alte urme mai ales in partea de care s-a lovit ala. L-ai lovit cu picioru de ti s-a umflat glezna sau ai cazut ?

Michelin Pilot Sport am luat eu de la Chemtraders pentru SV-ul meu. De aia ti-am zis sa intrebi la ei. Preturile lor sunt cam aceleasi cu cele din germania + 19%TVA. Mie mi-a convenit pentru ca le-am bagat pe firma.

da restul aprinderii l-ai verificat ? Fisele imbatranesc si ele , contactele se oxideaza .

Pe la Chemtraders ai intrebat ? Pareau a avea stocuri destul de mari si daca nu au pe stoc, poate-ti aduc pe comanda.

Cum iti dai seama ca rateurile sint numai la pistonul din fata ? Idei : - daca ai filtru de aer nou, bujii noi, verifica si sincronizarea carburatoarelor. - motoru v-twin functioneaza 'asimetric', adica intervalul intre ciclurile de evacuare al pistonului 1 si 2 nu este egal cu timpul dintre 2 si 1. Din aceasta cauza este posibil sa ai rateuri numai la un piston, iar acest lucru sa fie perfect normal.