ULEIURILE MOTO - (tipuri/clase/interval schimb, etc)

[B.B.]

Daca pui prea mult se pot intampla doua lucruri:

1. ti-l scuipa afara pe la garnituri, de obicei pe capacul chiulasei sau pe unde apuca. (mai mult ulei in baie, mai putin aer in carter, presiune mai mare)

2. daca e suficient de mult sa ajunga vibrochenul sa balteasca in el face spuma.

 

Ideal e sa mai scoti din el, altfel risti sa strici garnituri, semeringuri.

[mottofreee]

Daca e prea mult ulei ,volumele din blocul motor destinate expansiunii acestuia se diminueaza si uleiul face presiune suplimentara care forteaza semeringii ;ai toate sansele sa cedeze .Mai bine cu o siringa elimina surplusul,oricum ideea e ca aspiri uleiul si recuperat asa se poate folosi pt complectare . Cat despre cauciucurile Haidenau ,intreaba-l pe Galen ,el stie mai multe.

Da,mi s-a intamplat ,dar cu o motocicleta si daca o 'scapa' fara ulei ,se strica motorul la moment - 12000rpm - putin probabil sa se fi mers fara ulei/ulei putin .Pompa de ulei am verificat-o ulterior si e ok.

[tao v]

mersi baietii! dupa ruga de dimineata ma duc amu sa dau la seringa!

asfalt uscat si fara taximetristi in cale... si da pasagere in spate!

[ricomuerte]

daca am joja, uleiul il verific la cald sau la rece? multumesc.

[B.B.]

Uleiul se verifica la cald, indiferent de ce ai.

Dupa o perioada de functionare se opreste motorul, se asteapta 1-5min apoi se verifica nivelul. Cu joja, cu gemuletul, cu ce-o fi.

[Cesar]

daca am joja, uleiul il verific la cald sau la rece? multumesc.

 

La cald sau la rece. Nu e aproape nici o diferenta dintre nivelul la cald sau cel la rece.

Sunt modele la care procedura de verificare e mai complicata, dar la tine nu e cazul.

Motocicleta dreapta, joja nu se infileteaza.

[ricomuerte]

multumesc. o zi buna.

[Nepotu_Lu_Zmoala]

O nelamurire am si eu vis avi de un ulei pe care l-am capatat de la un confrate baicar care s-a lasat... Intrebarea mea e ce termen de valabilitate are uleiul in ambalajul original? este un ulei castrol power1 racing 10w50 fabricat in 09/09/2008. Eu vreau sa il pun intr-un r6 din 2003 cu 30 de mi de km. Astept sfaturi ...

[defcon]

Zmolica , pe eticheta aia pe care bietul producator, importator a pus-o pe bidon , nu scrie nimic? am un bidon pe care scrie : "valabilitate 5 ani de la data fabricatiei inscrisa pe ambalaj ". Si eu tot kkstrol PAUÁR REISING 10-50 am in troaca de anu trecut si nu bate , nu urla ( inca). Daca ai dubii , il poti folosi ca sa speli motorul cand faci schimbul de ulei sau sa ungi lantul

Editat August 14, 2013 de defcon

[Nepotu_Lu_Zmoala]

Nu scrie nimic de valabilitate doar data fabricatiei, pe eticheta scrie numai in engleza si franceza

[mottofreee]

5 ani daca e in ambalkajul original ,nedesfacut.

[B.B.]

Este complet interzis sa arunci uleiuri in mediu tocmai pentru ca au o perioada foarte lunga (daca nu infinita) de dezintegrare in mediu, dar se dezintegreaza stand intr-un bidon sigilat pe un raft timp de 5 ani.

[Performance Solutions]

de fapt petrolul a stat "in mediu" adica in pamant, sub presiune si la temperaturi mari. uleiul rafinat din petrol da, se degradeaza...

[cristidb]

Eu folosesc ce-mi ramane de la un an la altul, ca intra 3,3l la un schimb. Doar nu arunc 0,7l aiurea. La o motopompa honda am pus ulei ramas prin garaj in bidoane desigilate 2-3 ani. Merge motorul ala dupa 14 ani de folosinta ca atunci cand era nou.

[megamotoreta]

cica sa-l agiti usor inainte de folosire, se depun aditivii pe fundul sticlei in timp.

[cristidb]

Cat de usor sa-l agiti?

[Performance Solutions]

destul de usor, sa nu cumva sa-l ametesti...

[Chivu]

Dilemă mare la un prieten care a cumpărat un r6 2009 cu 500km la bord (da, reali, n-are rost să explic) și nu știe cum să procedeze cu uleiul. Să îl lase pe actualul până la 1000km și apoi să îl schimbe sau să îl schimbe si acum și la 1000? Filtrul în cazul schimbului de ulei în momentul de față merită schimbat ?

 

Eu mă gândesc că varianta a doua ar fi mai bună, cu un sigur schimb de filtru la 1000km, uleiul actual fiind mai vechi de un an.

Editat August 15, 2013 de Chivu

[Performance Solutions]

un rodaj bun se face cu 3 schimburi de ulei pana la 1000, dupa aia in mod normal, la 5000 (si nu sariti, stiu ca intervalele din manuale sunt mai rare)

[Nepotu_Lu_Zmoala]

Am decis sa bag uleiul in motor... In cazul in care mi se pare ceva in neregula il dau jos si bag altul. Thx

 

Am decis sa bag uleiul in motor... In cazul in care mi se pare ceva in neregula il dau jos si bag altul. Thx

[MVA]

zilele acestea trebuie sa schimb uleiul la 1000rr an 2006 si sunt nedumerit:

 

motul 300v sau bel ray EXS?

eventual daca ati incercat personal uleiul pe acest gen de motocicleta as vrea argumente pro si contra. multumesc!

[Amstaff]

Ambele sunt foarte bune, respecta indicativul 10w sau15w din manual.

[Dual Motors]

Un articol interesant:

 

"

Some Engine Oils Currently on the Shelves Can Harm Your Engine - Read the Lables!

 

There are engine oils currently on the shelves at auto parts stores, gas station convenience stores, food stores, and other retail outlets that can cause harm to your car’s engine. Yes, you heard correctly - Cause harm to your car’s engine. These are obsolete engine oils formulated for use in cars built prior to the 1930s! Know how to read the labels on the front and back of the bottles of oil you buy or you may be using product that can cause unsatisfactory performance or harm to your engine.

The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that engine oil meets certain Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label. As shown in the illustration below, engine oils with an API SA Service Classification were formulated for use in cars built prior to 1930, and are now obsolete. Yet, there are still not hard to find in retail outlets. Read on about what you need to read on the labels.

The current API Service Classification is SN

The labels include two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle. The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity. The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade.

Look to your owner's manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car's engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30.

Watch for the "W"

Whereas the labeling on the bottle of engine oil may suggest the product is a 5W-30, note, if there is no "W" between the 5 and the 30 it may not be a 5W-30. As an example, a SAE 5-30 is not the same as an SAE 5W-30.

The next 'code" to look for is the API Service Classification. Although it might appear complicated to understand at the start, it is really a simple system to get your arms around. Think of it this way, when cars were first built, the oil they required needed an API SA Service Classification. From there, it moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI and SK). The current API Service Classification is SN.

So if you buy an engine oil meeting only API SA, it's an engine oil formulated for use in vehicles built in the 1920s. And SA is not hard to find mixed in with SM on the shelves at c-stores and others. Furthermore, it's also not hard to find SF, SJ and other API Service Categories on the shelves. Also, don't let price guide you. Engine oils with a Service Classification prior to SN (including SA) are often priced close to that of API SN.

The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that an oil meets certain Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label.

The labels include two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle. The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity. The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade.

Look to your owner's manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car's engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30 and 10W-30.

 

Watch for the "W"

Whereas the labeling on the bottle of engine oil may suggest the product is a 10W-30, note, if there is no "W" between the 10 and the 30 it may not be a 10W-30. As an example, a SAE 10-30 is not the same as an SAE 10W30.

The next 'code" to look for is the API Service Classification. Although it might appear complicated to understand at the start, it is really a simple system to get your arms around. Think of it this way, when cars were first built, the oil they required needed an API SA Service Classification. From there, it moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI). The current API Service Classification is SM.

So if you are buying an SA oil, it's an engine oil formulated for use in vehicles built in the 1920s. And SA is not hard to find mixed in with SM on the shelves at c-stores and others. Furthermore, it's also not hard to find SF, SJ and other API Service Categories on the shelves. Also, don't let price guide you. Engine oils with a Service Classification prior to SM (including SA) are often priced close to that of SM.

Always consult your vehicle owner's manual to determine what motor oil you should use, and READ THE LABELS ON THE OIL YOU BUY.

 

American Petroleum Institute
Gasoline Engine Oil Service Classifications Category Status Service SN Current Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource
Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing
fuels up to E85. SM Current For 2010 and older automotive engines. SL Current For 2004 and older automotive engines. SJ Current For 2001 and older automotive engines. SH Obsolete SG Obsolete SF Obsolete SE Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1979. SD Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1971. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SC Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1967. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SB Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SA Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1930. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

 

"

[Chivu]

Ar trebui schimbat titlul în "paranoia e mare".

[yo4hgx]

Era chiar asa greu sa fi tradus materialul inainte de postare?

 

In plus, pare doar un anunt publicitar, neargumentat in nici un fel, pe langa faptul ca abordarea se refera strict la auto... probabil e scris de un jurnalist. Daca ai curiozitatea sa verifici etichetele uleiurilor de top moto, vei avea surpriza sa constati ca (inca) sunt catalogate drept API SG/SH. Nu tot ce este vechi este si prost!