Dan Cata

Mobra mea nu are cuzineti in furci, doar bara de crom bagata in jamba si intre ele ulei si ceva tzava de plastic. Si jegu e tot acolo.

Da

Nu ti-am inteles interventia. Nu crezi ca e crom? Cum crezi ca se fabrica gloss-ul cu care se dau chizdele pe buze?

Nu am prea multa experienta la mobre in 2T dar ma gandesc ca nu ar avea ce afecta. Alea in 4T fac spuma pt ca se agita in motor, dar din cate stiu eu nu ii de rau spuma aia Daca la 2T ar fi probleme ar insemna ca tre sa bagi acelasi ulei in rezervor de cand ai facut km1 cu mobra pana ce o arunci, nu?

Pai du-o la Dragos atunci.

Da si simeringu mananca din jamba... LA mobra mea dar banui ca si la altele, in service maneal, iti zice cat poate fi max "mancata" jamba; zice ca daca o proptesti pe 4 rulmenti si o verifici cu un comparator, daca la mijloc e cu max 0.5 mm mai subtire ca la capete, sa o schimbi... Jegu ala care curge odata cu uleiu din furci cand il schimbi e de fapt crom razut de pe furci.

KILL THE IRISHMAN

Aia cu teflonu o faci cand esti la mai mult de 100 km de casa. Cand ai mobra in garaj si stii ca ti-e futata apai o repari, daca vrei sa o mai folosesti si a doua zi.

Din ce am mai auzit printre hibe la mobra ta, verifica mufa de la CDI, se pare ca "joaca" si nu face bine contact. Incearca asta mai intai...

MAi sunt 2 locuri intr-o camera rezervata la vila Santana din Felix. Au piscina interioara si o sa fie si bazinu plin pe weekend. Care vrea sa ma anunte maine pana seara cel tarziu. E 70 ron/noapte camera respectiva. Plecarea se face sambata inainte de pranz la o ora ce o sa o stabilesc ulterior.

How to Tie Down a BMW R11xxRT To try to clarify (although these pictures might not help too much) here is where you should tie down the front: Wrap tie-down extensions around the fork legs right above the cross-brace. On the RT, the fork tube above and below the cross-brace is solid. Run the front wheel up against something solid like a wheel chock or the trailer wall or a 2x4 nailed to the trailer floor. You should ratchet the front tie-downs down solidly. You don't have to worry about compressing the suspension, as you would if you tie down to the handlebars, because you're tieing down below the front shock. As the trailer goes over bumps, the body of the bike will bounce up and down on the suspension over the normal range of travel, as it's intended to do. (It is a bit scary to look in the rear view mirror and see the bike bouncing around on a trailer, but it's more secure to tie it down this way than to tie it down with the suspension compressed, because the tiedowns won't work themselves loose.) The rear tiedowns go to the black frame members highlighted below that you find when you remove the black plastic side panels. These tiedowns really only stabilize the back of the bike - they don't do the brunt of the hold-down work. You can wrap soft tie-down extensions around the frame tubes or hook the tie-downs directly to the tubes. Run these rear tie-downs in the opposite direction from the front ones - if the front ones run to tie-down points in front of the bike, run these backwards, and if the front ones run to tie-down points behind the front fork, run the rear ones forward. The idea is that, in addition to side-to-side bracing, you want one set of tie-downs pulling the bike forward, and one set pulling it backward, so it won't roll. If you have both sets of tie-downs pulling the bike in the same direction, it can roll in that direction, the tie-downs will go slack, and it will fall over. The tie-downs should be arranged something like this: Once you have the bike tied down, put it in gear so it won't roll. (Or don't put it in gear, to avoid damage to the tranny. Don't really know on this point. Done it both ways with success.) Remember that it's in gear when you try to roll it off the trailer. As stated before, don't put it on the center stand. The stand isn't designed for having the bike bounce on it for thousands of miles. (Same goes for the side stand). Moreover, if the bike is on the center stand, it's less stable than if it's on two wheels, because it can teeter fore and aft on the center stand. Finally, unless you tie the center stand to the front fork, there's a chance that the bike could shift forward and roll off the center stand.

Se repara relativ usor, vezi cu useru' Rados

Idiot. Nu tu, ala din film

La 0-ring trebuie sa stii doar diametru interior si grosimea, adica diametrul lui efectiv. Afla astea concret si iti iau eu maine unu

Asa e, ai dreptate... My bad, numa boxere visez Ce sa faci, cand ai un ciocan in mana, tot ce vezi in jur is cuie

+1 cu mentiunea ca intre min si max intra 500 ml. Baga ulei sa completezi pana la 80% din inaltimea ferestrei si nu iti mai face griji in privinta asta pana ce te intorci in tara

Aici te inseli, nu e o servisare oarecare. Schimbu de lichid de frana, de ulei hidraulic la ambreiaj, facut supapele, sincronizat pare intr-adevar un pret de service BMW. Numa ca mai tre sa si mearga omu pana acolo...

Parca supapele se verifica si ajusteaza daca e cazu din 10 in 10 mii Oricum, eu fac asta la fiecare schimb de ulei...

Suna la service si intreaba ce presupune revizia aia. Parca la 1k km se mai strang ceva suruburi/prezoane prin motor... Daca iti schimba numa uliu uita de ei

Mie mi-au facut-o niste baieti aici in Cj cand am pus gumele pe mobra...

Super, suntem cel putin 2 gramezi de mobre confirmati pana acuma

Seria la cadru se gaseste pe cadru, sub jug, in partea dreapta. Seria la motor se gaseste pe motor stantata, in partea de jos, poate ca e acoperita de scut. Ia si tu un manual pdf de pe net si aflii mai multe despre mobra, nu numa unde is seriile

Numa asfalt, mai mult nu permite travelu la suspensii

Linistit Merem acolo, bem un drink, in cine mai incape poa' sa si manance Directia inspre oradea, cam 80 km dinspre Cj. Trafic lejer, curbe cat incape Mesaj completat Am uitat ora... la 12.30 la intersectia aia...