cristi-mic

Pai daca citeai topicurile mele, vedeai ca e predispus la rupere...mai ales in momente delicate din astea... Sper ca l-ai sudat cum trebuie, intarit cu un surub la interior.

Se mai intimpla, mai ales la inceput. S-o stapinesti sanatos. Noi sintem aici sa te ajutam...

Procycle 10W50 sintetic, Mobil 10W40 semisintetic, merge si un mineral de calitate. Dar pentru sintetice sa ai grija sa fie ulei moto (JASO MA). Despre Motul...au francezii o vorba..."avec Motul on s'encule"...

N-ai inteles nimic din ce am spus. Du-te sanatos pe unde vrei, ca aia numai zona salbatica nu mai este...

Hai sa va spun si eu cite ceva, nu de alta dar lucrez la acel ARBDD de care nu stie nimeni nimic.... In primul rind exista un website foarte complet (am muncit ceva la el sa-l traduc(em) in 4 limbi): WWW.DDBRA.RO In al doilea rind, tot ce inseamna Grindul Lupilor (de la Canalul 2 la Canalul 5) si Grindul Chituc (de la foisor/pichetul de graniceri inspre nord) sint zone strict protejate, deci accesul este interzis. Acum vine partea practica: tot districtul ala are vreo 3-4 agenti ecologi, platiti ca vai de ei. Asa ca nu pot fi acolo 24/24. Plus ca in we nu le plateste nimeni orele suplimentare. DAR...asta n-ar fi o problema. Problema e ca zonele respective sint pe "lista neagra" a dezvoltatorilor imobiliari, asa ca asteptati-va la constructii ca intre Mamaia si Navodari...cit de curind. Nu conteaza ca legea spune ceva, terenul este deja impartit, si ma abtin sa comentez cine si-a facut rezervare acolo, ca v-ati cruci... Concluzia...ce mai conteaza citeva zeci de 4x4, ATV-uri care se plimba la 12 noaptea si gunoaie pe plaja...zona este deja compromisa, si nimeni nu cred ca o va salva. E valabil si pentru restul Deltei, in conditiile actuale.

Va rog frumos sa nu mai dati sfaturi care includ relee de Dacie sau de masina, care nu au nici o treaba cu cele de moto (vorbesc de gama XT-Z de la Yamaha, pentru ca mai exista unele moto gen Bandit sau GSXF care folosesc alternator tip auto). Daca vrei sa masori cum trebuie, scoti bateria de pe moto si masori tensiunea (sa aiba peste 12V si sa duca un bec de fac macar citeva minute). Daca bateria e OK, o pui pe moto, conectezi toate bornele si cablurile, pornesti moto si masori tensiunea la borne: la relanti, in turatie (in jur de 3000rpm), cu consumatori cuplati. In toate cele 3 cazuri ar trebui sa ai minim 12V, ideal in jur de 13-14V (nu va asteptati la valori constante sau absolute ca nu e cazul).

UN SFAT PENTRU POSESORII DE SUPER TENERE: Poate ma repet, dar e ceva vital (si cred ca e valabil la alte moto) tubul de prea-plin de la vasul de expansiune deverseaza antigel chiar in fata rotii. Nu cred ca vreti sa patiti ca mine si sa experimentati un derapaj pe antigel...mutati furtunasul undeva in lateralul rotii. Uneori nu ai a doua sansa...

Doar o idee: 40357 de la www.kedo.de.

Referitor la incarcare....nasoala treaba cu faza aia. Decupleaza cele 3 faze (fire albe) si masoara intre ele, pe curent alternativ, cu motorul pornit. Trebuie sa scoata in jur de 70V (alternativ, repet) la o turatie medie (4-5.000 rpm). Ai 3 combinatii, si voltajele trebuie sa fie egale. Daca nu...trebuie alt stator de alternator. Se gasesc, nu e problema, si costa cam cit un releu. Referitor la membrane, probabil ca merge si cu superglue, dar dupa ce demontezi o data carenele si rezervorul...nu prea-ti mai arde sa faci operatiunea asa des, mai ales ca merge lejer si cu niste membrane putin zdrentuite.

Cauta si pe site la Supertrapp, au niste chestii interesante acolo.

originala de ST Marving (XT)

Felicitari, ai descoperit Google Translate. Spune-le si la ceilalti....

A Short History of Battery Technology & The New “WET” Sealed MF Batteries Over the past decade more & more motorcycles have been delivered with sealed so-called “MF” (Maintenance-Free) batteries instead of the previously common filler-cap type. These “MF” batteries were pioneered by Yuasa Battery Japan & first introduced on some Honda motorcycles in the mid-80’s. Their advantages over the filler cap type are mainly their more compact size for a given cranking power & their anti-vibration glass-wool supportive plate separators. These fully absorb and hold the free acid electrolyte by capillary attraction thereby allowing the battery to be mounted even in an inclined position for a lower riding seat height. Sometimes, especially in their early days, these MF batteries also brought some disadvantages, warranty claims resulting from errors in battery commissioning by dealers, in turn compounded by their lack of both technical knowledge about MF battery technology & the appropriate chargers for them. Commissioning errors are aggravated by the fact that these batteries are delivered dry-charged with their own individual special acid cellular pack, the acid being of a higher concentration & density than standard battery acid. This acid has to be allowed to trickle from it’s special pack into the battery slowly, to avoid trapping bubbles, then the battery has to stand while the acid is fully absorbed before being given a pre-delivery 30 minute charge. All of this takes a good hour, an irritating delay both for the impatient customer & the dealer trying to satisfy him while also attending to other things. The inevitable tendency is to short-cut the correct procedures & this results in an under-par battery performance & an early warranty claim, usually at the expense of the motorcycle importer or distributor. Field studies by motorcycle manufacturers have shown that around half of all MF battery warranty claims arise from errors in commissioning procedure. In the early days, even greater problems arose as a result of a lack of suitable chargers for MF batteries whose battery voltage when fully charged is somewhat higher than that of a fully charged filler cap type. This is because of their more acidic electrolyte & differences in plate design. Moreover, although MF batteries (of the “YTX” type for example) retain their voltage significantly better during storage than filler cap types, once they do fall into deep-discharge (sulphation) they are if anything the more reluctant to accept a charge again. In fact, with their higher voltage characteristics, it happens often that an MF battery just cannot be recharged with a conventional type charger (with constant voltage charge characteristic). This fact gave rise to many MF battery warranty costs until a then obscure Belgian company developed (in the first place for Honda Europe) a completely new type of combination testing & constant current charging device with, moreover, the ability to recover many even sulphated batteries to a serviceable status called the BatteryMate. Today the BatteryMate is the most widely endorsed and used professional diagnostic battery charger in motorcycle workshops in Europe & North America. TecMate followed up the BatteryMate with OptiMate, a specially designed end-user charger to prevent deep-discharge occurring in the first place. The OptiMate PRO 4MF followed, a fully automatic 4-station multiple battery diagnostic charger, whose application aim is to reduce MF battery commissioning errors while also eliminating the pressure on the dealer & the stress which causes the errors. Learning from past warranty experience & realising that commissioning errors lay behind many claims, motorcycle manufacturers also deliver pre-filled sealed batteries. The acid is put into these batteries at the battery factory; the battery is sealed, charged and then delivered. The chore of filling the battery is removed from the dealer. Moreover, tests show that these new batteries retain their charge better & for longer than the previous dry-charged MF batteries (those delivered with separate acid packs). Even after 24 months of storage & having lost a good part of their charge, tests done on the new “YTZ” (Yuasa) & “FTZ” (Furukawa) type “wet” sealed batteries show that the battery can be restored to 90% of it’s original electrical capacity by the BatteryMate, a much better percentage capacity restoration than achievable after a similar period of self-discharge of the dry-charged “YTX” series. However, a correct commissioning charge is still vital for these batteries. A number of different models of these new YTZ / FTZ series batteries have been introduced, from the YTZ7S (6Ah) up to a YTZ14S (12Ah). Besides their slower self-discharge & improved restorability characteristics, the YTZ / FTZ series batteries are also volumetrically more compact than the YTX series batteries due to a reduced air chamber height (air space above the plates). Battery service life is generally claimed to be equal to that of the YTX series. Harleys & Buells will also be equipped with a newly developed “wet” sealed battery. This battery was developed especially for Harley-Davidson by EPM in the U.S.A. The word is that these new batteries are a big improvement on the various Harley batteries delivered in previous seasons, in several respects, including charge retention in storage & resistance to vibbbrrration. The part numbers of Harley’s new batteries are #65989-97A (18Ah, fitted to Buells & the lighter Harleys) & #66010-97A (28Ah, for the cruisers & tourers). Although these various new batteries have slower self-discharge in storage & improved restorability, the self-discharge clock starts to tick considerably earlier in practice for a battery commissioned & charged at the factory than for a dry-charged battery commissioned & charged by the dealer. It is therefore vital that dealers give these new batteries a pre-delivery charge on a suitable charger before delivery to the end user to avoid potential problems later. The BatteryMate has been tested in Japan & found to be very suitable for the new YTZ batteries. TecMate expect increased demand for their automatic OptiMate PRO 4 diagnostic multiple charger arising from the essential pre-delivery recharging of the new batteries. “Wet” MF or “AGM” (Absorbent Glass Mat separator) batteries are also referred to in some technical bulletins & documents as “ Valve-regulated “. The GT12B-4 batteries fitted to Yamaha’s R1, Yuasa’s YT7B-4, Fiamm’s FGH21803, 18Ah lawn tractor battery & Hawker Energy’s “Genesis” G13EP, G16EP & G26EP batteries are all also “ WET “ MF valve-regulated batteries. However they do NOT all share similar charging voltage characteristics. · In addition to the BatteryMate & OptiMate Pro-4 commissioning chargers, all these batteries can be excellently charged with the automatic constant current chargers AccuMate, AccuMate Pro, OptiMate & OptiMate PRO 8. Courtesy Yahoo Group XTZ750

Si la mine e la fel releul, e vorba de o modificare din fabrica, de la 6 la 5 fire parca (3 faze, plus si masa)(se uneste firul maro cu cel rosu daca nu ma insel). Tot sistemul se incinge (mai ales daca e montat sub sea). Uita-te la mine in semnatura pe link sa vezi cum am modificat. Cele 3 faze (albe) se incing putin, e destul de normal. Ca sa verifici incarcarea e simplu, pui un voltmetru pe bornele bateriei (motor pornit) si trebuie sa aiba minim 13-13,5 Volti, sa nu scada cind aprinzi farurile si sa nu varieze tare cind accelerezi (NU E VOIE sa sara de 15V). E posibil ca bateria sa fie obosita si de-asta are toate simptomele. Pune un consumator mare pe ea (demontata) si vezi cit rezista, daca dupa 1 minut moare e clar...

PS Vezi ca releul de Super Tenere montat de fabrica dupa 1992 este ala din poza, patrat si cu o eticheta rosie. La mine vine montat pe bucse de cauciuc, deci izolat de masa, si are un fir separat pentru legarea la masa. Asta ca sa stii cum arata originalul. Sa nu iei din ala mic, dreptunghiular, ca are racirea deficitara. Presupun ca si ala universal e bun, astea mai noi folosesc piese mai de calitate decit in 1990.

Sohei, sa cresti mare, cu placere Lotru, ala e releu de incarcare, pare OK, dar vezi ca mai sint citeva aici http://www.kedo.de/com/ssl/php/function/Sh...Seite%2F322.pdf Releele de incarcare sint identice ca principiu, difera doar unele conexiuni la montaj. Daca aia de la Kedo recomanda ceva, in principiu stiu despre ce e vorba, pentru ca sint cei mai buni la Yamaha enduro.

ROMI3 pe forum... Tel: 0723.564065 sau 0744.131876 email: romi_trb@yahoo.com

Articolul 41454 Membran Gasschieber (bucata), costa 22,50E, vorbesti cu Romi si se rezolva.

E o vaselina cu cupru, ca asta 10004883 la Louis.

E problema curenta. Vezi la www.kedo.de, nu costa foarte mult si se schimba intr-o ora.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread....ight=Adventurer niste inspiratie...

Va rog sa nu va mai legati de SuperTenere. La fiabilitate bate Honda, iar puterea si cuplul le dezvolta mai jos decit AT. Consumul e 6% mediu pe toata plaja de utilizari si pleaca lejer in treapta V la 2000rpm. Nu mai vorbiti aiurea. Imi plac si Hondele, nu tin partea nici unui model, dar sa fim obiectivi... On-topic, dintre monocilindre doar XTZ660 merge bine la drum lung (bagaje, pasager, demaraje etc). Restul nu tin ritmul, asta e realitatea. La bicilindre e mai complicat, TA nu prea are putere, nici AT nu sta foarte bine (60 cai), dar e adevarat ca se gasesc modele recente cu ani si km putini. SuperTenere e arhisuficient in orice conditii, dar fraierii de la Yamaha l-au facut doar pina in 94-95 si s-a cam invechit (asta e acceptiunea pietei). Daca treci peste prejudecatile astea, e un motor super, piese se gasesc, iar ca fiabilitate e beton. Plus ca merge un upgrade cu motor de TDM...si atunci chiar rupe. Vezi la noi pe site detalii.

Eu cred ca KTM-ul si-a facut seppuku, preferind moartea in locul alternativei. Si cred ca l-a ajutat faptul ca are piese japoneze (demarorul de exemplu). Oricum...oribil turnat aluminiul ala de la bloc.

Tocmai voiam sa spun ca nu mai avem ce cauta acolo, e ditamai statiunea de cocalari (faptul ca e sponsorizata de Becali va zice ceva ?).... Pacat, imi venea sa mor de ciuda cind am fost si-am vazut ce e acolo.

Pai tu n-ai vazut ca valva aia e sudata de tzaranul roman/italian ? Of.....ce le-as mai rupe dintii cu patentul la astia care se baga sa "modifice" pe la motoare... PS Important....la multe ST scirtaie amortizorul spate, si e destul de greu de remediat. De vina e bucsa uniball a prinderii inferioare a amortizorului, la care degripantul/vaselina nu pot ajunge asa simplu pentru ca bucsa respectiva e protejata de semeringuri, iar in timp intra apa pe acolo si incepe sa protesteze. Solutia e demontarea amortizorului (sau macar a prinderii inferioare), scoaterea semeringurilor si deblocarea bucsei. E vorba de un cilindru de material antifrictiune in care sta o bila prin care trece axul de prindere, si care permite o miscare pe mai multe directii (uniball). Daca piesele astea se gripeaza, axul se invirte direct pe bila si apare uzura, scartait etc. PS 2 Raul, felicitari pentru ideea cu trecerea la ST