bogdan_harea

Farurile de V-Strom la care s-au montat xenoane sunt maxim. Nu-ti mai trebuie proiectoare si nici nu suprasoliciti instalatia electica inutil. Consuma 2x35 W.

Atunci elimina cu ce nu esti de acord si ramane restul. La vremea respectiva s-a tot discutat. Pt mine nu mai reprezinta un subiect pt ca am trecut la cardan , iar pt altii nu mai pot face din lipsa electronicii.

La Service, Intretinere lant, dar nu ma pune sa caut ca mi-e lene. Era doar o parere in niste circumstante date.

Orice s-ar spune, se misca bine!

Crosstourerul este pt aventura din 2012 . Putine locuri pe glob unde nu poti ajunge pe un drum. Indiferent de starea lui un drum este un drum si Honda la asta s-a gandit. Cred c a facut si un sondaj cu intrebarea catre posesorii de GS, Stelvio sau Multistrada cat la suta din calatori parasesc drumul. 2-5 % cred. Nesemnificativ. In plus lovitura este pretul foarte competitiv in raport cu BMW in special si concurenta in general. Sub 14000 euro. Cine-si cumpara motorul din ratiuni practice va fi satisfacut 100%, cine il cumpara din ratiuni de imagine nu.

Daca parbrizul este mai subtire, suruburile ajung stranse la max si atunci daca fortezi se rupe. Muntate corect conform instructiunilor nu sunt probleme. Spor la cumparare.

Trebuie sa vorbesc cu un prieten care a comandat de cateva ori pt mai multi dintre ai nostri. Undeva in Lituania, fabricate probabil in China, dar privite de aproape si rasucite pe toate fetele identice cu cele vandute de firmele care fac parbrize. Daca reusiti sa comandati suportii respectivi va ajut cu plasticul curbat free. Am mai gasit o bucata maricica de plexiglas transparent de 3 mm.

Mecanismele de prindere reglabile pt deflector deasupre parbrizului se gasesc pereche pe ebay. La cca 150 roni. Mai iefin dar nu la fel de elaborate se poate folosi o balama de la tamlaria PVC usor modificata.

Cu multi ani in urma un mic vaporas (Antares) cu motor de tractor de 65 CP, Salvat de la fiare vechi, tractand 3 barci de salvare, foste ale bricului Mircea reusea traversarea Jurilovca-Portita in 45 min, transportand min 60 persoane si bagajul aferent. Cele mai frumoase vacante la mare din totdeauna acolo le-am petrecut.

Sa dai detalii si aici. Sunt cred multi posesori interesati de subiect si curiosi ca mine.

Pe curbe suprafata de contact se injumatateste, daca nu mai mult, si nu stiu cu RAR-ul sau un politist mai zelos care sa compare marimea cauciucurilor cu cele din talon. Cum s-o modifica ciclistica pe curbe cu atata suprafata plata in zona de contact?

Scuze m-am incurcat in raspunsuri.

Intreaga discutie aici http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=776556

O idee pt cine vrea sa schimbe cauciucurile. http://advrider.com/...22&postcount=22A facut cineva asa ceva? Cu se comporta motorul cu noile cauciucuri?

Cam asa ar trebui sa arate roata dupa o zi intreaga de mers 4-500 km. Foloseste ulei de lant de drujba, e cel mai bun.

Incercati pe motoechipamente.ro. Eu de acolo am luat costum de ploaie in 2 piese si rezista o zi intreaga pe ploaie torentiala fara udatura. Probal de mai multe ori anul trecut. Neaparat din doua piese pt ca cele integrale se imbraca greu si nu se ventileaza suficient, transformandu-se in sauna. In plus geaca poate fi folosita si separat, daca la sfarsitul zilei, inca ploua si ai chef de plimbare pe jos.

Stropitul excesiv al rotii vine din prea mult ulei in generel sau din prea mult ulei intr-un interval scurt de timp dupa apasarea butonului. Prima se rezolva prin lungirea perioade sau nr de km parcursi intre doua actionari, iar a doua prin incetinirea curgerii uleiului. Trebuie gasita o metoda de strangulare a furtunasului astfel incat uleiul sa ajunga pe lant intr-un timp cat mai lung pt ca absobtia lui prin capilaritate dincolo de O ringuri nu se face instantaneu iar uleiul care pt scurt timp este in exces ajunge pe roata. Ideea este ca o data actionat butonul o anumita cantitate de ulei va ajunge oricum pe lant, ideal in timpul cel mai lung posibil si evident in mers. Intradevar sistemul este foarte simplu si ieftin si utilisat cu grija va fi perfect. Eu am mai folosit sticlutele din plastic cu picurator de la picaturi de ochii sau alcool boricat. Mai usor de folosit si dozat picaturile de ulei inainte de plecare pe traseu.

Pana la RAR si inapoi merge si ne echilibrat.

Ruleaza fix la fel. Cauciucul face diferenta. In SUA era cel putin o firma care facea roti cu spite dedicate si pt DL. Daca ai rabdare sa cauti in sute de pagini pe Advrider gasesti. S-ar putea insa sa coste mult, daca nu ma insel, cca 2000 $ perechea si nu cred ca merita.

Baiiii tu crezi ca Rockoil este chinezesc? Fabricat in UK iar la reprezentanta mi-au spus ca Yamaha il foloseste la motoarele de competitie. 12euro litrul .

Nu-mi trebuie mai multa benzina decat am. Pot depasi lejer 500 km autonomie. Ideea si realizarea ei era interesanta la maniera ca "se poate". Si asa am folosit canistra o singura data cand am salvat de la pana prostului un BMW-u al carui proprietar abia il cumparase si nu-i stia dichisul cu rezerva de benzina. O comparatie interesanta din partea unui utilizator. As an owner of both bikes ( 2009 GSA with 28000 km and a 2011 S10 with 3000 km ) and after following this thread for some time I decided to make a practical comparison between them. I have more than 230.000 miles riding experience, most of it on GS/GSA bikes, mostly on long distance journeys through South America, Asia and Africa. As a basic point I do not consider both bikes capable of any off road real travel. I usually use the off tarmac term when riding in gravel, dirt and sand roads.2222 The test With my son I took both bikes from Sao Paulo, Brasil ( where we live ) to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and back.In order to test the bikes in all conditions we switched bikes every 200 miles. This is a 7000 KM journey, 80 % on tarmac and the rest on gravel, dirt and light sand roads. We faced temperatures between 40 and -2 degrees Celsius (104 28 F ) and altitudes from sea level up to 5000 meters ( 17000 feet ) when crossing one of the Andes passes. Both bikes had the same tires ( Tourance for tarmac and Karoo T for off tarmac ), new brake pads, oil and filters. The GS has all the options ( ABS, ESA, ESC etc ) and the S10 the standard package that includes ABS, traction control and engine mode. Both bikes has 38 liter Zega Pro panniers and assorted protection gear from Touratech. The S10 carried also a 3 gallon Rotopak fuel tank that I never used. Each bike was loaded with around 36 kilos of luggage. Some numbers Total mileage: 6998 km/4375 miles GSA Fuel Consumption: 388 liters ( 18 km/liter- 42 mpg ) S10 Consumption: 368 liters ( 19,5 km/ liter -44 mpg ) ( the overall mileage is low due to very steep and twisty roads to cross the Andes pass and the low speed/third gear all day ride through sandy roads in the Atacama desert. Both bikes are capable of 47/50 mpg runs on tarmac) GSA Oil Consumption : 3 liters S10 Oil Consumption: 0,5 liters S10 Water Consumption: none Overall Impressions Steering Although both bikes has basically the same weight, the S10 feels lighter on low speed maneuvers and heavier on medium to high speed turns. Although heavier, the steering seems to be more precise than the GSA, specially on bumpy tarmac roads. Braking The S10 brakes are in another league. I always believed that ABS was only usefull in the tarmac and it really annoyed me that the S10 had no “regular” way to switch off the ABS. During this trip I never switched off the ABS and its intervention is so seamless that you hardly notice it working. If there is an aspect where the S10 shines over the GSA is in the braking- traction control aspect. You must adapt your riding to this braking system, in order to use the interlinked braking system to its best. It took me two days dirt riding to really get used to it. The GSA brakes are also very good but IMHO Yamaha system is much better. Traction Control Also here the Yamaha system is better. After a few days, used it almost the time on mode 2 except on very twisty tarmac sections , full of diesel spills from the trucks. Different from the GSA system most of the time you only know the system is working because of the light. You feel nothing on the engine noise or riding attitude. I never switched it off. Both ABS and traction control worked perfectly on the Karoo tire in both bikes. Driving Mode The S10 has the driving mode switch. I leave it in the S mode. You can achieve the same effect with wrist control. Ergonomics Aside the original seat, the GSA offers a better ergonomic position for the rider. Wind protection, controls positioning are better than the S10’s. The original seat of the |Yamaha is better that the GSA. All the electronic adjustment of the GSA ca\n be made from the left handlebar, while the S10 has the engine mode on the right handlebar and the rest directly on the front panel. I find the GSA more comfortable on rides above 600 km / day. Front Suspension On the tarmac I prefer the GSA system specially because of the lack of diving under braking. Off tarmac the S10 is more compliant to the road and specially better on sandy roads. The S10 suspension is more adjustable ( although not at the flick of button ) but I usually leave it at the same setting all the time, ie preload at 3 and compression and rebound at 4 clicks Rear Suspension My impression is that both are at the same level ( considering the standard shocks ) Again the S10 suspension is more adjustable ( although not at the flick of button ) but I usually leave it at the same setting all the time, ie preload at 3 and rebound at 6 clicks / Rear drive Both work well, but on a previous GS I had a drive failure at 15.000 miles. I think that the double swingarm in the S10 is more reliable on the long run. To soon to say anything. Engine From the technical point of view the S10 engine is much more advanced than the boxer. The side radiator works well.My trusted mechanic says that the S10 engine is awfully limited, meaning that it could deliver easily 130-140 hp only dealing with the ecu and fuel injectors, specially if running on ethanol. It has an annoying “gap” around 3500 rpm, but it seems something related to the injection map and could easily be fixed with Power Commander. It takes bad gasoline ( low octane ) with no problems. This bad batch we got was exactly when crossing the high altitude pass ( 17.000 feet Paso de Jama ) and although you could feel the power loss there was no knocking at all. The GSA boxer engine complained a lot ( pinging) and was really running very hot.It looks like the ECU+ knocking sensor could not deal with high altitude and bad gas at the same time. By the other way the boxer engine is the “ character “ of the GSA. It is reliable and it is for ever linked to the GS brand. I just love this engine, so my analysis is biased here. Rear Frame To soon to say anything about the S10 rear frame sturdiness. The GSA with heavy panniers usually cracks when riding off tarmac.. Price At least here in Brazil, the GSA costs US$ 50.000,00 and the S10 costs US$ 34.000,00 Service Number of BMW service centers between Sao Paulo and San Pedro de Atacama= 0 Number of Yamaha service centers between Sao Paulo and San Pedro de Atacama= 30+ Parts Cost GSA rear shock in Brazil= US$ 2.857,00 ESA S10 rear shock in Brazil= US$ 975,00 Labor Cost BMW labor cost per hour: US$ 100,00 Yamaha labor cost per hour: US$ 50,00 All things considered I consider the S10 a better bike to long distance travel. Character by character the GSA is unbeatable. I will keep both, but from now on will travel with the S10.

Intradevar arata intr-un mare fel. Parbrizul si handguard-urile sunt ca turnate. Un sezon perfect!

Daca tot esti pus pe incercari pune si Rockoil. Eu am sa pun in V-Stromul lui fratemiu cu prima ocazie.